When you’re carrying a basket down a pet store aisle brimming with water conditioners – each promising to make tap water safe for your goldfish – it’s easy to be overwhelmed.

With a mountain of choices, which is the best aquarium water conditioner?

It depends. The best aquarium water conditioner for your particular needs may not be the best option for the pet owner next door. So how do you make the decision?

Some water conditioners are specialized for certain situations (for instance, API Stress Coat is particularly effective in hospital tanks), while others are designed for specific aquarium sizes (Seachem Prime is highly concentrated, so it’s more convenient in large aquariums).

In this article, we’ll compare four popular water conditioners. We’ll weigh the pros and cons and take a look at the highlights – what sets each water conditioner apart. By the time we’re through, you should be able to determine the best aquarium water conditioner for your tank.

Let’s dive into your options.

The Best Aquarium Water Conditioner: A Product Comparison

Though some water conditioners include extra additives, the fundamental goal of a water conditioner is to make tap water safe for your goldfish. For this reason, I recommend buying a water conditioner that neutralizes both chlorine and chloramine at the very minimum (you can read more on how water conditioners work).

But how do the top four water conditioners compare?

The following chart analyzes the most popular water conditioners on the market. You’ll get a quick glimpse on how each conditioner differs (hopefully making it easier to find the best aquarium water conditioner for your goldfish). Later, we’ll look at each product in detail.

Already selected the best aquarium water conditioner? Hold on!

Before you make a hasty decision, let’s take a closer look at each product in turn.

API Stress Coat

API Stress Coat doesn’t just remove chlorine. It promotes a safe environment for your goldfish by neutralizing chloramine and detoxifying harmful heavy metals in tap water.

This water conditioner leverages the natural healing abilities of Aloe Vera to nurse your goldfish back to health, healing damaged tissue and torn fins faster.

When goldfish are sick or hurt, the slime coat might take the brunt of the attack. Without a slime coat to shield off infection, goldfish can be even more vulnerable to diseases.

Not only does API Stress Coat reduce stress, but it also creates a synthetic slime coat. The extra slime protection helps your goldfish fight off infection, safeguarding against electrolyte loss during stress and boosting oxygen flow through the gills.

If your goldfish are under a lot of stress, API Stress Coat might be the ticket out. In fact, API Stress Coat is scientifically proven to reduce fish stress by 40%.

1 teaspoon (5 ml) of water conditioner treats 10 gallons (38 liters) of water, with one 16-oz bottle treating 960 gallons of aquarium water.

Depending on the size of your goldfish tank and water changing schedule, API Stress Coat offers 6 bottle sizes:

1. 1-oz bottle treats 60 gallons or 227 liters
2. 4-oz bottle treats 240 gallons or 908 liters
3. 8-oz bottle treats 480 gallons or 1,817 liters
4. 16-oz container treats 960 gallons or 3,634 liters
5. 64-oz container treats 3,840 gallons or 14,535 liters
6. 1-gallon (128-oz) jug treats 7,680 gallons or 29,072 liters

Cap can be used for measuring on smaller bottles. Available large container sizes make it easy to manage multiple aquariums at the same time (and save money with every ounce!).

API Stress Coat may very well be the best aquarium water conditioner for quarantine and hospital tanks. Add this water conditioner to every water change, following the instructions on the bottle.

Tetra AquaSafe Plus

Tetra AquaSafe Plus quickly converts tap water into a safe haven for goldfish, neutralizing chlorine and chloramine on the spot.

But it doesn’t stop there! This handy water conditioner detoxifies poisonous ammonia and heavy metals, creating a risk-free environment for your goldfish.

Tetra AquaSafe is rich in important vitamins and minerals, filling the gaps where tap water is lacking and promoting energetic breeding behavior during the early months of spring. With stress-reducing slime, your goldfish can stay active and healthy all year long.

Tetra AquaSafe Plus also includes an advanced BioExtract formula that features natural biopolymers produced from kelp. These seaweed extracts boost biological filtration, strengthening beneficial bacterial colonies that keep your aquarium water clear and healthy.

1 teaspoon (5 ml) treats 10 gallons (38 liters) of aquarium water, and one 16.9-oz bottle treats 1,014 gallons of water.

Depending on your aquarium size and water changing frequency, Tetra AquaSafe Plus offers five different bottle sizes:

1. 1.69-oz bottle treats 101 gallons or 382 liters
2. 3.38-oz bottle treats 202 gallons or 765 liters
3. 8.4-oz bottle treats 504 gallons or 1,908 liters
4. 16.9-oz bottle treats 1,014 gallons or 3,838 liters
5. 33.8-oz bottle treats 2,028 gallons or 7,677 liters

You can use the bottle cap for measuring. Shake well before use and always read the directions on the bottle.

With its seaweed extract and unique blend of vitamins, Tetra AquaSafe Plus might be the best aquarium water conditioner for breeding tanks. Use it when setting up a new aquarium or with every partial water change.

Seachem Prime

Seachem Prime not only plays the role of a chlorine and chloramine neutralizer! Heavy metals and harmful toxins don’t stand a chance.

Prime is a concentrated solution that cuts down on nitrite and nitrate. Unlike some water conditioners, Prime doesn’t just break the ammonia/chlorine bond in chloramine either. It also removes toxic ammonia, turning harmful chlorine into a safe substance.

When the immune system is at its lowest, new goldfish are especially susceptible to goldfish diseases during shipping and handling. And after a long car ride home, a new aquarium environment can be just as stressful.

Seachem Prime stimulates natural slime coat production, helping your goldfish fend off infection without the use of synthetic or artificial slime compounds found in some water conditioners.

You don’t need a lot of Prime for it to work its magic. In fact, this water conditioner is the second most concentrated dechlorinator on the market (source)!

1 teaspoon (5 ml) treats 50 gallons (189 liters) of water, while a single 16.91-oz bottle treats 5,073 gallons of water.

Prime offers 6 different bottle sizes:

1. 50-ml (1.69-oz) bottle treats 507 gallons or 1,919 liters
2. 100-ml (3.38-oz) bottle treats 1,014 gallons or 3,838 liters
3. 250-ml (8.45-oz) bottle treats 2,535 gallons or 9,596 liters
4. 500-ml (16.91-oz) bottle treats 5,073 gallons or 19,203 liters
5. 2-liter (67.63-oz) container treats 20,289 gallons or 76,802 liters
6. 4-liter (135.26-oz) container treats 40,578 gallons or 153,604 liters

Bottle cap can be used for measuring solution. Make sure to follow the instructions on the bottle.

Prime is especially popular in goldfish aquariums because it’s extremely concentrated. If you’re a hardcore goldfish hobbyist, Prime might be the best aquarium water conditioner if you like yours to last awhile. You’ll save money no matter which bottle size you use.

Seachem Prime is effective for routine use, regular water changes, or setting up a new aquarium. If fish-in cycling, you can also use Prime throughout the nitrogen cycle to keep ammonia and nitrite levels under control.

Aqueon Tap Water Conditioner

Sometimes you don’t need all of the extra additives that come along with a fancy water conditioner.

Aqueon’s standard water conditioner includes everything you need to make tap water safe for goldfish, neutralizing both chlorine and chloramine. The conditioner also restores your goldfish’s natural slime coat at the same time that it detoxifies heavy metals and ammonia from chloramine and fish waste.

1 teaspoon (5 ml) treats 10 gallons (38 liters) of aquarium water, and a 16-oz bottle includes enough solution for 960 gallons.

Aqueon Tap Water Conditioner offers 5 bottle sizes:

1. 2-oz bottle treats 120 gallons or 454 liters
2. 4-oz bottle treats 240 gallons or 908 liters
3. 8-oz bottle treats 480 gallons or 1,817 liters
4. 16-oz bottle treats 960 gallons or 3,634 liters
5. 1-gallon (128-oz) container treats 7,680 gallons or 29,072 liters

Attached dosage cap can be used for measuring.

If your goldfish never get sick and you’ve already established a healthy aquarium environment with adequate filtration, Aqueon might be the best aquarium water conditioner for your tank.

The standard Aqueon Water Conditioner can be used any time you add new water to the aquarium, whether setting up a new tank or performing partial water changes. Follow the directions on the bottle.

Depending on the water conditioner brand you buy, how much conditioner you actually need to safely treat tap water will vary. No matter how slight the difference, always follow the instructions on the back of the bottle exactly.

After all, they’re there for a reason!

So, What Is the Best Aquarium Water Conditioner?

The water conditioner you ultimately stick with is up to you.

No conditioner is the best aquarium water conditioner for all situations: each has its own unique benefits. Just make sure to treat tap water with a solution that neutralizes both chlorine and chloramine, detoxifying harmful heavy metals that might take a toll on your goldfish’s health.

Once you find the best aquarium water conditioner for your tank, you can rest easy knowing your tap water is 100% safe for your fish inhabitants (as long as you keep up with regular water testing of course!).

How About You: Do You Have a Personal Favorite?

What is the best aquarium water conditioner for your goldfish? Which water conditioners do you use?

Share your thoughts in the comment section below!

The post Buying the Best Aquarium Water Conditioner for Your Goldfish appeared first on Complete Goldfish Care.

Think tap water is safe if it sits overnight?

You’re not alone. Yes, maybe this was true in the old days. But if you stick to the 24-hour rule now, you could be putting your goldfish at risk.

Why? Doesn’t chlorine evaporate after 24 hours?

It does. Though, with the addition of chloramine (what happens when chlorine and ammonia are bonded together), ammonia gets left behind even as the chlorine takes off.

With adequate filtration, this might not be a problem. But since goldfish add their own ammonia load to the water (and a hefty helping at that), your biofilter might have a hard time managing all that waste.

That’s why it’s always good to remove chlorine and ammonia from tap water. Lucky for goldfish, a tap water conditioner does just that.

Not only are water conditioners effective for neutralizing chlorine, many tackle this very chloramine problem to make the resulting ammonia completely harmless and safe for your goldfish.

The Magic of Magnetism: How a Tap Water Conditioner Works

If you didn’t think the chlorine problem could get any worse, you’re in for a shaky awakening!

If you just take tap water and pour it into an aquarium with live goldfish, invisible compounds in the water can actually burn your goldfish’s gills, attacking the cells in living tissue. The next thing you know, your goldfish are rushing to the top of the aquarium, frantically gasping for breath.

If the chlorine isn’t removed – and soon – death could quickly follow.

Photo by Jenn Durfey

Water districts disinfect bacteria and pathogens with chemicals like chlorine and chloramine, making tap water safe for humans to drink. But these same chemicals are dangerous to pet goldfish.

Here’s when water conditioners come to the rescue.

A tap water conditioner works by neutralizing chlorine, forming ionic bonds and rendering the chlorine harmless. The tap water is then goldfish-friendly, completely safe for both goldfish and beneficial bacteria that keep your aquarium water healthy.

Think of it like this – harmful tap water is full of positive charged magnets called chlorine that magnetically stick to your goldfish’s gills. When you use a tap water conditioner, negative charged magnets get to work, attracting harmful disinfectants. Now, instead of clinging to fish gills, the chlorine magnets stick to the conditioner magnets and the chlorine becomes harmless (source).

Water conditioners that neutralize chlorine are all well and good. But if your public water system disinfects tap water with chloramine, you’ll need a tap water conditioner that can split apart the chlorine/ammonia bond and tackle each separately.

Since water districts often switch between chlorine and chloramine, it’s best to play it safe and purchase a tap water conditioner that deals with both.

Tap Water Conditioners: What Are My Options?

Not all water conditioners are created equal. Some only neutralize chlorine (but not chloramine), while others offer a full package of features (that you may not need).

There are three main types of water conditioners.

• Dechlorinators: Using small amounts of sodium thiosulfate, these basic water conditioners quickly and effectively remove chlorine but won’t even touch ammonia or heavy metals!
• Chloramine Neutralizers: These useful water conditioners not only get rid of chlorine, but they also tackle pesky ammonia and sometimes heavy metals as well.
• Complete Conditioners: Handy water conditioners that neutralize chlorine and ammonia, these conditioners also detoxify harmful heavy metals and remove copper from water.

It’s not uncommon to stumble across chloramine neutralizers and complete conditioners in the pet store.

Fancy water conditioners might also include additional vitamins to boost the immune system. Some even reduce stress by replenishing the slime coat (that slimy sheen covering the scales and protecting goldfish from infections), providing them extra defense against hazardous goldfish diseases.

Luckily, water conditioners are pretty inexpensive and last a while before you need to restock your cabinet.

How Often Is Enough? A Foolproof Water Treatment Plan

Always condition tap water when you first set up a new aquarium and during each partial water change.

• When setting up a new aquarium: If you’re just getting the nitrogen cycle started and haven’t yet added any goldfish (for fishless cycling), you can hold off on buying a complete tap water conditioner and instead use a simple dechlorinator. This way, when chlorine is neutralized, the leftover ammonia will be fed to the beneficial bacteria to jump start the nitrogen cycle.
• With every water change: Water added after the initial tank setup should be treated with a chloramine neutralizer or complete tap water conditioner. If you don’t use either one of these, you risk killing off all the beneficial bacteria – and that could crash the nitrogen cycle!

Once you’ve set up your goldfish tank, you’ll only really need a tap water conditioner every time you perform your weekly water changes.

2 Ways to Treat Tap Water: Bucket or No Bucket?

Water conditioners work their magic in literally minutes.

You can condition your tank water one of two ways: in a bucket or directly in the aquarium.

Cautious? Try a Bucket

Simply fill a bucket with tap water and measure in the right amount of conditioner!

It helps to have your own tank-friendly teaspoon for measuring. You’ll also need to know how large your bucket is (and how much water can fill it).

You should only need just enough water conditioner to treat the amount of water in the bucket. I like to swirl the water in the bucket before filling the tank (so I know the tap water conditioner is mixed well).

Skip the Bucket and Go All In!

If you use a hose or water changer that attaches to your sink faucet, you can condition tap water as you splash it directly into the aquarium.

In this case, you may need to measure the right amount of conditioner for the full volume of your tank (follow the directions on the water conditioner bottle). Slowly drip the right amount of tap water conditioner into the stream of water as you fill your aquarium.

It may help to swirl the water around the aquarium to mix the conditioner with the tap water.

Whatever method you choose, always treat tap water with a water conditioner.

Remember: just because tap water looks clean, doesn’t mean it is!

There could be harmful chemicals running rampant behind the scenes – many dangerous compounds are colorless, even odorless, and invisible to the naked eye. Never take crystal-clear water as a sign that the water is healthy or safe for your goldfish.

By keeping water quality high, your goldfish will live long, happy lives.

Keep conditioning tap water and maintain a healthy aquarium environment with adequate filtration and routine water changes. You should also run weekly water tests with a freshwater test kit to ensure the water stays in tip-top shape.

How about you? Which tap water conditioner do you use?

The post Taking Risk Out of Water: A Tap Water Conditioner Guide appeared first on Complete Goldfish Care.

What’s the most important thing about a goldfish environment? It’s not the food, not the lighting, and not even that little diver with the treasure chest (though he does make for hours of entertainment).

You guessed it. It’s water!

Just like the air that fills your lungs, water supplies goldfish with essential oxygen. Without fresh and clean water, your goldfish can get sick. And if the water is filled with harmful toxins, there’s a slim chance your goldfish will survive.

After all, how long could you last if every breath set your lungs on fire?

If you plop your goldfish into tap water without treating tap water for goldfish first, stress could be the least of their problems. In fact, chlorine and heavy metals in the tap water can literally kill your goldfish overnight!

What’s wrong with using fresh tap water for goldfish?

Let’s go behind the scenes, taking a look at what could happen when goldfish meet tap water.

What’s in the Tap? Unraveling the Goldfish and Tap Water Mystery

Fresh tap water looks crystal clear, so it must be safe for goldfish right?

Not quite!

Invisible toxic substances that may be floating around in your tap water can be dangerous – even deadly – to your goldfish!

The culprits? Chemicals and heavy metals.

Chlorine and Chloramine: Goldfish Poison in Disguise

There’s a chance your tap water contains chlorine, a chemical that fights off nasty bacteria that could make you, me, and everyone you know sick if it weren’t for the chlorine keeping it in line.

Sometimes tap water is also disinfected with chloramine, basically a chlorine/ammonia combination that works overtime to make tap water safe to drink – for humans!

The problem is, goldfish can’t stand chlorine.

While a small amount of chlorine is bad for goldfish, the added ammonia in chloramine makes tap water even worse!

Chlorine and chloramine are completely invisible to the naked eye – you can’t see them but your goldfish will feel them. If you drop your goldfish directly into tap water containing chlorine, this damaging chemical will burn their gills and this gill damage can make it hard for your goldfish to breathe.

Not only can chlorine destroy the beneficial bacteria that keeps your aquarium water healthy, but it will eventually kill your goldfish if the tap water isn’t treated.

Heavy Metal Chemistry: Not a Rock Band

In addition to chemicals, tap water also contains heavy metals like cadmium, copper, lead, and zinc. While humans tolerate this without trouble, goldfish are very sensitive to most heavy metals.

Yes, goldfish do need small amounts of some heavy metals (zinc, for example). But if zinc concentrations are high, the overload can do more harm than help – damaging the gills and posing a life-threatening risk.

Goldfish are even less tolerant to lead and copper. Depending on your water source, these heavy metals can be abundant in large quantities!

Keeping Tap Water Safe for Goldfish: The Healthy Water Treatment

Goldfish can tell right away when they’ve been placed in dangerous tap water. They’ll frantically gasp for breath, rush to the water surface, and sometimes might attempt to jump right out of the water.

The worst news?

If you use tap water for goldfish that contains harmful chemicals or high amounts of metals (and leave it untreated), your goldfish won’t have long to live – at all. At most, your goldfish might survive until the early morning.

Don’t take any chances.

To make tap water safe for goldfish, you have to remove both chlorine-based disinfectants and heavy metals in the water. That’s when tap water conditioners come into play, neutralizing chlorine and getting rid of excess heavy metals that cause goldfish stress.

In a hostile environment, water conditioners are vital for keeping tap water for goldfish safe.

Plus, some water conditioners even include powerful stress coat boosters that help your goldfish fight off nasty goldfish diseases.

The Friendly Water Conditioner: Treating Tap Water for Goldfish

Before every water change, always treat tap water with a water conditioner.

With such a variety of water conditioners available, I don’t know a single pet store that doesn’t carry one. Some water conditioners only act as a dechlorinator (and just remove chlorine) while others completely condition your aquarium water – making tap water safe for goldfish, not only from chlorine but heavy metals as well!

Some water districts use chloramine in place of chlorine and others use both chloramine and chlorine. Treating chloramine will only neutralize the chlorine, leaving toxic ammonia behind.

Play it safe and always buy a conditioner that neutralizes both chlorine and chloramine, making tap water for goldfish safe the second it enters the water.

These three water conditioners (below) are great stand-alone conditioners and do a remarkable job treating tap water for goldfish. I’ve personally tried and recommend them.

• API Stress Coat helps stressed out goldfish recover faster by replacing the slime coat lost during infection and healing damaged tissue while it’s at it – all while neutralizing chlorine, removing chloramines, and detoxifying heavy metals in tap water.
• Tetra AquaSafe Plus makes tap water safe for goldfish by neutralizing chlorine, chloramines, and heavy metals while adding vitamins and minerals to the water. This conditioner also helps wounded goldfish rebuild their slime coats and boosts the growth of beneficial bacteria (essential for keeping your aquarium water healthy).
• Seachem Prime removes chlorine and chloramine in tap water, converting harmful ammonia into a safe, non-toxic substance. Prime also neutralizes nitrite and nitrate while detoxifying heavy metals in aquarium water, promoting a healthy slime coat to boot! Because Prime is highly concentrated, it’s a good option for large aquariums.

After choosing a water conditioner, you don’t need anything else to keep tap water for goldfish safe.

I use Seachem Prime in all of my tanks (because it’s concentrated) but I had used Tetra AquaSafe for over 8 years before switching to Prime. I recommend API Stress Coat when you’re treating goldfish diseases or after buying new fish (that could be stressed from handling).

When you treat tap water for goldfish, make sure to carefully follow the instructions on the bottle. As you mix the solution, your goldfish should be safe in conditioned water until the water conditioner has finished work.

Pre-Conditioned Water, a Tap Water Alternative

You can forgo the tap water altogether and buy special pre-conditioned water from a pet store.

Bottled pre-conditioned water is designed to make water changes as easy as possible. Simply twist off the bottle cap and pour the water directly into your aquarium.

Unlike the water you drink from plastic bottles (which you should never use in your aquarium), pre-conditioned water is teaming with important minerals – without the chemical risk of tap water. Some of the water is even oxygenated, which can be useful if you’re concerned that your water may not be getting enough oxygen exposure from its surface.

But when faced with large water changes (consequences of messy goldfish) and even larger aquarium sizes, oxygenated pre-conditioned water from the pet store can get pricey quickly. That’s why they’re usually designed for betta bowls instead.

Besides, water conditioners work just fine. And really, they’re all you’ll ever need.

Either way, you can rest assured that your goldfish will remain safe and happy – and that’s what matters.

Forgot the Water Conditioner? Make Tap Water for Goldfish Safe

Even if you accidentally put goldfish in tap water and you notice your goldfish acting strangely, you might still be able to save them in time.

Photo by Woodlouse

Act quickly!

Immediately treat the aquarium with a water conditioner, following the directions on the back of the container.

If there’s chlorine in the tap water, it probably already destroyed most of the beneficial bacteria in your aquarium filter. Move your goldfish to a cycled aquarium if possible until your established tank can complete the nitrogen cycle again.

At this point, the gills might already be damaged. Add an air stone to increase aeration (you’ll need airline tubing and an air pump for this). The air stone will boost oxygen levels in the water, making it easier for your goldfish to breathe.

If you ever suspect there might be a trace of chlorine or chloramine in the aquarium water, never leave it overnight! Treat tap water for goldfish quickly and your fish might have a fighting chance.

Always provide your goldfish with the highest quality water possible, complete with routine water changes and excellent mechanical/biological filtration. By treating harmful chemicals in tap water, your goldfish can live a long and healthy life.

Your Turn: How Do You Treat Tap Water for Goldfish?

Do you have a favorite water conditioner? What products do you use to keep tap water for goldfish safe?

Share your tap water stories in the comments below!

The post Using Tap Water for Goldfish: Goldfish and Tap Water Basics appeared first on Complete Goldfish Care.

Just like water changes, aquarium water testing should be part of your regular routine.

Most goldfish tanks should be tested at least once per week (or more frequently within the first months of setting up a new aquarium) and when you notice goldfish disease symptoms.

Aquarium test kits are absolutely vital for monitoring and keeping water parameters in your tank under control. By testing the water weekly, you’ll discover potential disasters before your goldfish’s lives are on the line.

You probably already discovered dozens of freshwater test kits on the market – each testing for completely different things!

So which water parameters should you test?

Vital Tests First: 4 Aquarium Water Testing Kits You Can’t Do Without

Some aquarium water testing kits need to be used weekly to keep your tank water healthy and clean – ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and pH are in the front of the line.

It doesn’t matter if your tank is just getting established or you’re in the sixth year running. If ammonia and nitrite run rampant in your aquarium, it could spell disaster for your goldfish!

Just getting the nitrogen cycle started? You can watch the stages unfold by testing for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. You may also want to test for pH, since pH can have a direct impact on how harmful ammonia is (and drastic pH changes can kill your goldfish!).

Let’s talk water parameters. We’ll take a quick dive into what each parameter is, how it impacts water quality, the best test kit to use, and why aquarium water testing should help.

1. Ammonia

Ammonia is produced when uneaten food and waste break down.

To beneficial bacteria, ammonia makes a delicious feast! But if the nitrogen cycle hasn’t completed (or something kills off all your good bacteria), ammonia can cause serious damage. Prevent problems with an aquarium water testing kit.

• Always keep ammonia at 0ppm (parts per million). Just getting your tank started? Sometimes small traces are inevitable (keep ammonia at 0.06ppm until the nitrogen cycle runs its course).
• Change the water immediately if ammonia is found in an established tank. Find the source. Ammonia is common in overcrowded tanks or when goldfish are overfed, especially when the biological filter can’t keep up.
• Ammonia can be tested weekly with an API Ammonia Test Kit (liquid reagent) or master test kit.

In an established tank, ammonia should never be a problem.

2. Nitrite

Nitrite is developed when beneficial bacteria break down ammonia.

Usually your biological filter will convert nitrite into nitrate before it’s a problem. But if ammonia gets out of hand, nitrite may soon follow.

• Keep nitrite at 0ppm (or below 0.75ppm if starting the nitrogen cycle).
• If nitrite levels increase over 0.75ppm, perform an immediate water change and boost aeration. Often, high nitrite levels can mean there’s a serious problem with ammonia (and the biological filtration in your aquarium).
• Test nitrite weekly, either with an API Nitrite Test Kit or master aquarium water testing kit.

While nitrite is only slightly less harmful than ammonia, it is still very toxic (and fatal) to goldfish.

3. Nitrate

Created when nitrite is broken down in the last stage of the nitrogen cycle, nitrate doesn’t harm goldfish unless levels are high.

Struggling with algae? Large traces of nitrate can attract this pretty common, yet very vexing plant, leading to unpleasant algal blooms.

• Keep nitrate levels below 40ppm (5 to 20ppm is ideal).
• If nitrate levels are high, perform a partial water change. Nitrate shouldn’t be a problem if you keep up with tank maintenance and aquarium water testing.
• Test nitrate weekly, either with an API Nitrate Test Kit or master test kit.

Nitrate should never be a problem if you’re performing regular water changes.

4. pH

pH measures how acidic or alkaline (basic) your aquarium water is, on a scale of 0 to 14.

The lower the reading, the more acidic your water is. When pH levels hit 6.5, the beneficial bacteria that keep ammonia under control start having trouble and the nitrogen cycle stops altogether at a pH of 6.0 and below (source) – this can cause dangerous ammonia spikes!

Likewise, the higher the reading, the more alkaline the water is. Ammonia is actually more toxic to goldfish when pH is high (source), while nitrite is more toxic at lower (acidic) pH levels (source). Also not good.

A reading of 7 is always neutral, and water hardness can affect pH.

• Goldfish love alkaline water and prefer a pH of 7.2 to 7.6. Though, even if the pH is close to this range (but not quite there), your goldfish should still do well.
• You should only change extreme pH readings and only do so in very small increments (drastic changes can kill goldfish). Use a product like PH Up or PH Down to raise or lower pH.
• Keep pH levels constant (and avoid changing it unless absolutely necessary). Test for pH weekly or if ammonia or nitrite become a problem, either with an API PH Test Kit or master test kit.

Instead of buying each test separately, you can save a little money and purchase a freshwater master test kit that includes tests for all four water parameters in one box.

Aquarium water testing kits can be purchased anywhere tank equipment is sold. You can also let your local pet store analyze a portion of your aquarium water. Watch out, though. Depending on the shop, there might be a small fee.

Keep test kits handy and you can ensure that water parameters never fall below the safe range. By maintaining top-quality water with aquarium water testing, your goldfish will thank you with vibrant colors and happy, long lives.

5 Useful Water Parameters Every Aquarist Should Consider

You can test for just about any imaginable water parameter in your aquarium.

Photo by Yuko (Flickr)

Master freshwater test kits give you everything you need to test well-known water parameters like pH, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. But while these four are the most important, you shouldn’t brush aside other helpful parameters as well.

When aquarium water testing, the following water parameters can help.

1. Copper

Copper is generally only a problem when using copper-based medications to kill off parasites (like white spot disease). Sometimes you may also notice copper in your tap water.

It helps to keep track of copper concentrations when treating parasite diseases. Aquarium water testing lets you know when copper-based medications are effective or if you should stop treatment (if copper gets out of hand).

• 1.5 to 2ppm of chelated copper sulfate (used in Mardel CopperSafe) is often recommended for treatment (source). When using any copper-based medication, follow the directions on the bottle.
• Test copper levels (0 to 4ppm) with an API Copper Test Kit.

Some invertebrates are very sensitive to copper and high traces of it are lethal to goldfish. Be careful to only use the correct dosage during any treatment with medication.

2. Chlorine

Chlorine in untreated tap water can be a huge problem – especially for goldfish! Luckily, there are many products (water conditioners) you can use to remove it. Learn more about how water conditioners work in this tap water conditioner guide.

If chlorine makes you nervous, you can test your conditioned tap water for chlorine before pouring it into your aquarium. But testing for chlorine won’t be necessary if you’re using a good water conditioner.

• There should be no chlorine in aquarium water.
• Tetra EasyStrips has a chlorine test built in (also tests nitrite, nitrate, GH, KH, and pH).

If chlorine is found in your aquarium water, it can literally kill your goldfish overnight! Always treat tap water with a water conditioner.

3. General Hardness (GH)

General hardness lets you know how hard or soft your aquarium water is.

The more dissolved minerals (like calcium and magnesium), the harder the water is. Low traces of dissolved minerals indicate that the aquarium water is soft.

• While goldfish do fine in both hard and soft water, 200 to 400ppm might be ideal.
• You can test both general hardness and carbonate hardness with an aquarium water testing kit.

4. Carbonate Hardness (KH)

Carbonate hardness helps keep the pH in your aquarium stable.

The lower the KH, the more pH can change (pH crashes are dangerous!). Increasing the carbonate hardness can prevent pH shifts.

• Raise KH when pH shifts become a problem, but don’t raise it too high. Water with a high KH (200ppm or more) may have high pH levels (source).
• Test carbonate hardness and general hardness with an aquarium water testing kit.

5. Phosphate

When wastes break down, phosphates are released into the water. While phosphate won’t hurt your goldfish, too much of it can cause unsightly algae growth.

• If algal blooms are an issue, testing phosphate might pinpoint the problem. The lower the phosphate, the better (in an unplanted tank). In planted aquariums, you may want to have a nitrate/phosphate ratio of 10:1.
• Test phosphate levels, from 0 to 10ppm, with an API Phosphate Test Kit.

Raising goldfish is a big responsibility. After all, their lives depend on your care!

While it may be easy to get caught up in things like aquarium size, shiny pebbled substrate, and vibrant foliage, you should never overlook water quality.

Crystal-clear water will trick you.

It’s impossible to tell whether the water is healthy for your goldfish unless you regularly test the water. You don’t have to test every water parameter listed above, but you should make aquarium water testing a habit (at the very minimum, test for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate).

Which Water Parameters Do You Test?

Do you test for certain water parameters? Has it helped you prevent infections?

Share your aquarium water testing experiences by submitting a comment below!

The post Aquarium Water Testing Made Easy: 9 Handy Water Parameters appeared first on Complete Goldfish Care.

Ammonia burns, agitated gills, and deteriorating fins.

Poor water quality can impact your goldfish in a myriad of ways. Sometimes, your goldfish might be so out of shape to even wiggle off their bottoms to eat. And if the water gets too far out of hand, your goldfish may not recover.

Prevent problems before they start.

Like all fish, goldfish are sensitive to water chemistry – particularly the amount of ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate in the water. But unlike many tropical fish, goldfish can make such a big mess – and excrete so much waste – that the beneficial bacteria in your aquarium won’t be able to handle it all without a good filtration system and regular water changes.

Aquarium test kits are so easy to use, yet so very crucial, it’s amazing how many hobbyists skip this one vital step.

How Do Aquarium Test Kits Work?

The water may look clear, but that doesn’t mean it’s safe for your goldfish. In fact, the water could be burning your goldfish’s gills and you wouldn’t even know it!

Photo by Jellaluna (Flickr)

Unless either the water became so unbearable to reveal visible signs of stress or you were using freshwater aquarium test kits on a weekly basis (which you should).

Providing a safe space for your goldfish isn’t as simple as just filling a tank with tap water (treated with a water conditioner of course).

Dangerous toxins are often invisible to the naked eye. Aquarium test kits help you find problem areas before they do serious harm to your fish.

If you…

• Suddenly start losing goldfish,
• Notice signs of stress,
• Or your goldfish become sick

…there might be something wrong with the water.

Not only do aquarium test kits help you find and prevent problems that could lead to serious goldfish diseases, you can watch the nitrogen cycle in real time when you first set up a new tank. In fact, testing for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate is the only way you’ll know whether your aquarium is fully cycled (and if you can add goldfish safely).

You don’t even have to know anything about water chemistry before testing water quality. No, really.

Aquarium test kits aren’t complicated – at all!

So Many Choices! Which Test Kit to Buy?

Inexpensive and long-lasting, freshwater aquarium test kits can save you a lot of trouble.

And if you ever get tired of buying different kits for each water parameter, you can pick up a freshwater master test kit that includes everything you need to test multiple parameters at once (saving money over the long run).

From test strips to liquid test kits, there are many types on the market. How are they different? Let’s take a look.

Water Test Strips (Dip Sticks)

If you’re constantly running errands or work around a busy schedule, you’ll love the convenience of these aquarium test kits.

• Water test strips are easy to use, providing results in literally minutes. Because they only require a quick dip in aquarium water, they’re especially popular with children and first-time fish owners.
• On the flip side, test strips can lose accuracy when exposed to air moisture. You may also pay more for the convenience.

Water test strips are simple to use, making water testing both fun and easy – especially for children!

Just quickly dip a strip into your aquarium water and wait for the results. Depending on the brand, it might take a minute or two. After colors develop on the test strip, compare the results with a chart that’s included in the kit.

Tetra EasyStrips (6-in-1 Test Strips) makes water testing painlessly easy. Designed for busy folks with hectic schedules, Tetra EasyStrips saves you time by testing multiple parameters at once.

Determine the health of your aquarium water with minimal effort. With just a quick dip of the test strip, you can receive accurate results in as little as 60 seconds.

Easy-to-use test strips include six common tests: chlorine, nitrite, nitrate, general hardness (GH), carbonate hardness (KH), and pH. With 25 or 100-strip packages, you can test each parameter up to 100 times.

Looking for ammonia test strips? They can be purchased separately.

Air moisture is one of the main reasons for inaccuracy. Avoid touching the test squares and always keep water test strips in a dry, air-tight container.

Liquid Test Kits

Known for their accuracy, these aquarium test kits use liquid reagents to test aquarium water. They’re a great alternative if you want to save a little money and don’t mind the extra preparation time.

• Liquid test kits can be more reliable than water test strips. Each kit also offers plenty of testing solution for hundreds of tests, and you only have to wait a few minutes for results to show.
• More difficult to use with a longer preparation time, liquid test kits can be overdosed. Discolored water may also tamper with results.

To test, simply fill a vial with aquarium water (don’t worry, your freshwater aquarium test kit will come with one!) and drip the testing liquid into the vial, following the instructions in your kit.

Certain parameters will require a specific number of drops of the testing solution. For other tests, you may need to give the vial a quick shake to mix the liquid. Once results develop, you can then compare them on a chart included with your liquid test kit.

A complete kit for testing the most vital water parameters, API Freshwater Master Test Kit offers over 800 highly-accurate tests in a single kit.

Equipped with everything you need to monitor water quality, this master test kit comes with a laminated color chart for easy color comparison, a holding tray for convenient storage, and four test tubes with snap-tight lids. A transparent dome protects your testing supplies from water damage.

An instruction booklet is also included, with detailed step-by-step directions on how to perform each test and correct problem areas in your aquarium.

Liquid solutions test for pH, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate.

To prevent problems, fill the vial exactly where the line indicates. And follow the instructions exactly as they appear in your instruction booklet.

For most aquarium test kits, shelf life can range from 6 months to 2 years (sometimes even longer). Make sure you pay careful attention to the expiration date and replace testing supplies once the expiration is reached (or your results might not be accurate!).

It helps to keep a record of your test results, so you can compare them later to previous tests. Then you have a constant visual of how the water chemistry is improving in your aquarium (and can make changes if you aren’t seeing good results!).

Water testing may seem daunting at first. But aquarium test kits make actual testing very simple, even for a complete beginner! You’ll get the hang of it in no time and, trust me, your goldfish will be happier for it.

The post Aquarium Test Kits: What You Don’t Know <em>Can</em> Hurt Goldfish appeared first on Complete Goldfish Care.

In the second part of the goldfish disease series, we talked about 7 of the most common goldfish ailments that impact freshwater aquariums and ponds. We even looked at 14 goldfish disease symptoms to watch out for.

Now, let’s examine ways to prevent goldfish ailments by pinpointing exactly what caused your goldfish to get sick.

Yes, I know.

You may think you already have it figured out. In the last article, maybe you learned that your goldfish had ich (white spot disease). You probably already killed off the parasites, even.

But have you really treated the problem?

Poor Water Quality: #1 Cause of Goldfish Ailments

Most goldfish fall victim to goldfish diseases when they’re left to swim in murky water conditions, often flooded with poisonous ammonia and unhealthy pH or nitrate levels. You might forget to change the water one week or forgo water tests for a while. You might even give in to your goldfish’s seemingly constant plea for yet another morsel of food.

The next thing you know, your goldfish are on a wild feeding frenzy and pooping out buckets (overfeeding is very bad news for goldfish).

Poor water quality is common, especially in new tanks where goldfish are expected to survive in three-gallon bowls (they can’t, by the way). Poor water quality can also be lethal and cause all sorts of problems (goldfish ailments).

You’ll know when your goldfish are suffering from unhealthy water conditions when they start spending all of their time at the water line, gasping frantically for oxygen. And if you’re doing weekly water tests like you should, you’ll know the second water conditions start to go downhill.

Water tests are an important part of preventing goldfish ailments before they infect your fish.

To successfully treat goldfish ailments, you’ll need to first eliminate the cause – the reason why your goldfish are sick. If poor water quality is causing your goldfish to act strangely, it’s crucial that you make the aquarium environment healthy again before you start medicating. If you don’t, your goldfish might not recover.

Poor water quality is often caused by overfeeding or overcrowding, but it can also result from negligence. Your goldfish need you! They need a responsible owner who can give them high-quality goldfish care, the type of care that will promote long-lasting lives in a clean aquarium environment.

Before doing anything else, perform a water test. Make sure water readings are in the safe zone. And if they’re not, change 25% of the water. You should also vacuum the substrate thoroughly with a water siphon as you complete water changes. Doing so will remove any uneaten food rotting behind the scenes that could cause goldfish ailments.

You can buy a freshwater test kit at your local pet store or order one online. You can even take a water sample with you to the pet store. But get that water tested.

Depending on what the problem is, you’ll need to take different measures to make the water is safe for your goldfish (and prevent goldfish ailments). In the case of an ammonia spike, solving the problem may be as simple as changing 25% of the water every day until the filter can get things under control.

Once you’ve filled the aquarium with conditioned water (you are treating that tap water right?), sick goldfish will be able to breathe more easily with higher oxygen levels in the aquarium. At this time, you’ll also want to identify what caused your goldfish stress.

In the case of poor water quality, why were the water conditions so unhealthy?

Solving Goldfish Ailments: A Deep Look at the Process

We’ve talked about some pretty nasty goldfish diseases in part 2 of the goldfish disease series. By now, you probably think you have a good idea of what your next action steps should be.

If you haven’t done so already, you should really start thinking about what caused your goldfish to get sick in the first place. Was it poor water quality? If so, what caused the poor water quality? Overfeeding? Overcrowding? What can you do about it?

The goal here is to make sure the problem doesn’t happen again – and avoid goldfish ailments as much as possible. If you leave things how they are, you could be putting your goldfish at risk of another infection.

Let’s walk through the process.

1. First, determine the goldfish ailments (what made your fish sick?). Maybe your goldfish are suffering from fin rot. The ends of each fin might have developed cotton-like growths as they’re literally getting eaten away by bacteria.
2. Figure out what caused the infection. We already know one of the leading causes of fin rot is poor water quality. After testing the water you discover that an ammonia spike has run rampant in your tank and your goldfish suffered as a result.
3. Pinpoint how the water got so out of hand. Thinking back, you remember that you purchased a new goldfish a couple months ago. Could the aquarium be overcrowded?
4. Confirm the problem. If you read my goldfish tank guide, you’ll remember that fancy goldfish need at least 10 gallons of water per fish. Your aquarium is only 46 gallons and you already had it stocked with four goldfish before you bought the new calico ryukin goldfish. Now you have five goldfish in a 46 gallon aquarium. Your tank is definitely overcrowded!
5. Try to solve the problem. Now what can you do? The best course of action would be to buy a bigger tank, preferably a 60-gallon aquarium. If you’re on a tight budget, get one used. But what if you can’t afford a new tank right now?
6. Look for a temporary solution. You might decide to buy a cheap 106 quart Sterilite storage container (about 26.5 gallons, safe for one or two fancy goldfish) to take some weight off of the main aquarium until you can upgrade it. It won’t look nice, but at least your aquarium will no longer be overcrowded. And it will definitely prevent goldfish ailments, keeping water readings on a healthier level until you can afford a bigger aquarium.
7. Search for other solutions. Make sure your filter is in good working order. Clean out any waste buildup with hot water (don’t use soap!). You should also rinse out the filter cartridge with aquarium water (don’t use tap water!) to remove excess waste.
8. Find other problem areas. You admit that you have been a little lax in water changes lately.
9. Fix each new problem. You should probably step up your water changes. You may have to perform more frequent partial water changes (and change 25% of the water three times per week instead of only once per week). You should also schedule your water changes on a calendar so you don’t forget.
10. Check if the original problem is fixed. When you test the water, does ammonia stay at 0ppm (parts per million)? If so, you’ve solved the problem! Awesome work. If not, you still may have some fixing up to do. Go back over steps 8 and 9 to find other problem areas.
11. Prevent goldfish ailments. You’ve made the aquarium environment safe for goldfish, but you’re not home free yet! What else could you be doing weekly to prevent further water quality issues? For starters, you should always test the water regularly (so you’re aware of uncomfortable water conditions before they cause goldfish ailments). Especially in an overcrowded tank where water can deteriorate quickly.

If you took the temporary solution in the above scenario, you didn’t completely solve the water quality problem but you did improve it.

Make that aquarium purchase a priority. If you absolutely can’t afford a larger goldfish tank, you should give some of your goldfish away to friends who can. To completely treat overcrowding, you’ll need to upgrade your aquarium as soon as possible. Otherwise, your tank will remain overcrowded and susceptible to goldfish ailments.

Are You Asking the Right Questions?

Treating goldfish ailments can be tough, especially the persistent ones that don’t want to leave your aquarium alone.

Photo by Katie Brady (Flickr)

If a goldfish disease is running rampant in your aquarium, it’s important that you know what caused the problem in the first place. We’ve given you an example in the last section of how this process might look like. But your problem might be very different from the one above.

To solve your unique situation, ask these questions.

• Have I tested the water recently? Freshwater test kits are affordable and many include easy-to-follow instruction manuals that make monitoring the aquarium water simple and painless. You should test your aquarium for ammonia, pH, nitrate, and nitrite weekly to ensure that your water is always safe for your goldfish. I personally use an API Master Test Kit. It works well and lasts a couple years before I have to buy replacements. If the water ever gets out of hand, I’m able to prevent goldfish ailments because I can see immediately what went wrong.
• Have I quarantined new fish or plants for at least two weeks before placing them with my healthy goldfish? If not, make a commitment to quarantine from now on. Parasites are most common in aquariums with new fish, so you don’t want to put all of your healthy goldfish at risk by not taking safety precautions first.
• Did I pour questionable or unconditioned water in the aquarium? Remember to treat tap water with a water conditioner like Prime or AquaSafe each future water change. After purchasing a new fish, never dump water from the plastic bag into your aquarium. If you’re not sure what could be swimming in the water, pour it down the drain.
• Does the aquarium have enough oxygen? Poorly oxygenated water could mean that there’s a problem with your filter. Your filter might be clogged or the filter cartridge could do with a rinsing out. You might even need a new filter if yours is broken or not functioning optimally. Poorly oxygenated water can cause stress and make your fish susceptible to goldfish ailments.
• You should have either a power filter or canister filter for your tank. I personally use a Marineland Penguin Power Filter. It has lasted me years and comes with a bio wheel for extra oxygen.
• Whatever filter you use, you’ll want one with a flow rate (gallons per hour or gph) that is at least 10 times your tank volume. So a 20-gallon aquarium that can keep one or two fancy goldfish will need a filter with a flow rate of around 200 gph.
• It might also help to include an extra air stone or two to keep the water well aerated. Some aquarium decorations have built-in air stones for this purpose.
• Is my aquarium overcrowded? Remember, one or two fancy goldfish are most comfortable in aquariums that can hold a minimum of 20 gallons of water. For each additional fancy goldfish, you should add an extra 10 gallons of water. Otherwise, your goldfish might be susceptible to goldfish ailments. See my goldfish tank guide for more details.
• Have I been doing routine water changes? Depending on water readings, your goldfish tank might require more or less frequent water changes. I personally like to change my aquarium water once per week, and I take out 25% each water change. In addition to this, I test the water weekly and rinse out the filter media with aquarium water during each water change. You might have a similar routine, but make sure you do those water changes!
• Was there a sudden temperature drop in the aquarium? It’s recommended that you never place your goldfish tank near a window for this reason; sudden temperature changes can cause problems for fish. Goldfish ailments are more common when your fish are stressed, so make sure your aquarium either stays at a steady temperature or the temperature doesn’t change too drastically.
• Is my goldfish being fed quality food? If you’re unsure, take a look at my goldfish food guide for tips on what to feed your goldfish. Goldfish need a nutritional diet in order to stay healthy. Make sure you vary the diet to ensure your goldfish are getting the right nutrients. When feeding dry food, I typically alternate between Hikari Lionhead pellets, Omega One Sinking Pellets, and New Life Spectrum Pellets. My goldfish seem to like this combo, since they never know which brand they’re going to get each day. All three brands are very high quality, and I’ve noticed that my goldfish search for food more vigorously since the switch from Tetra food brands.
• Is there uneaten food at the bottom of the tank? You could be overfeeding your goldfish. Avoid goldfish ailments by vacuuming the substrate with a water siphon to remove any uneaten food that might foul the water. This is best done during your weekly water change (or after accidentally overfeeding). If overfeeding is a problem, consider feeding your goldfish less often (and less food per feeding).

These questions were designed to help you puzzle through common goldfish problems. Get in the habit of asking questions and always try to figure out ways you can avoid future goldfish ailments in the aquarium.

Keeping fish healthy is much easier than treating them if they become ill. – David E. Boruchowitz, author of Aquarium Care of Goldfish

Prevention is the key to keeping healthy goldfish that thrive. Remember to quarantine new fish or plants (if bought from an aquarium where fish are present) for at least two weeks before placing them in the same aquarium with healthy goldfish.

Don’t risk the health of your goldfish.

Always maintain a healthy aquarium environment by giving your goldfish the appropriate amount of water to swim around in (10 gallons of water per fancy goldfish), testing the water on a weekly basis, practicing routine water changes, making sure your tank is well oxygenated, and feeding your goldfish a high quality diet to prevent goldfish ailments.

Goldfish that are properly cared for will live long, enriching lives. You owe it to your pets to give them the goldfish care they need to thrive. So observe your goldfish carefully, catch goldfish ailments early, and treat harmful goldfish diseases quickly. Then take preventative measures to keep your goldfish healthy.

What Do You Think?

How do you prevent goldfish ailments? Do you have any tips for first-time goldfish hobbyists? Post your suggestions in the comment box below!

The post Prevent Goldfish Ailments: Determine the Root of the Problem appeared first on Complete Goldfish Care.

Buying a goldfish tank that is large enough and designed to house the number of goldfish you plan to keep is the first step to raising healthy fish that thrive. The type of aquarium you choose can determine whether your goldfish flourish or just barely survive.

You want a goldfish tank that your fish can comfortably live in.

Goldfish can live for 15 to 20 years, and some have even surpassed the 20-year mark. But to ensure your goldfish reach adulthood, it’s important that you choose goldfish tank your fish will thrive in.

Remember that your goldfish will grow rapidly and will not be an inch long for very long, so you should plan on a larger aquarium to start. – Quick & Easy Goldfish Care by TFH Publications, Inc.

Then there’s the matter of design. Tanks aren’t just the traditional rectangle shape now. You can get fancy and buy a dazzling aquarium specially designed to enhance the beauty of your goldfish.

Let’s take a look at a few goldfish tank requirements, what to avoid, and how to pick the best option for your aquarium needs.

What Size Is Appropriate for a Goldfish Tank?

Get 20 gallons (75 liters) at the very minimum and only if you’re keeping one or two goldfish.

We’ll get to why in a minute, but you don’t want an aquarium smaller than that. Depending on how many goldfish you plan to keep, chances are you’ll want a tank much, much larger.

Yes, I know. Goldfish tanks are expensive. But on the flip side, your goldfish won’t have to breathe through murky water. Assuming the aquarium is properly maintained, of course. And it’s much easier to keep the water crystal clear in a large goldfish tank.

No matter which way you look at it, a small aquarium equates to much more work, frequent water changes, and stressed out goldfish.

In addition to those 20 gallons, you’ll need to add 10 gallons (40 liters) of water for each additional goldfish you buy (if they’re fancy). If you’re keeping slim-bodied goldfish (like commons, comets, or shubunkins), you’ll need even more space – 30 gallons for each additional fish. Take a look at my guide on common goldfish types.

But why all the space?

I’m sure you’ve heard of the one-inch-of-fish-per-gallon rule. But goldfish aren’t like tropical fish, so this rule just doesn’t apply.

Instead…

Buy the Biggest Tank You Can Afford

There are a number of reasons for this. Let’s look at a few.

Photo by Louis Hall

• Goldfish are very bulky. Because of their odd body shape, they need much more oxygen than slim-bodied, more streamlined fish of the same length. Yes, the one-inch rule might work while your goldfish are young. But as your goldfish grow (and grow quickly), so does their body. Before you know it, your goldfish are quadruple the weight they were previously. And because they’re so heavy, they’ll need even more oxygen. If your tank doesn’t have a lot of space with a wide surface area, you may find your goldfish gasping for breath near the water line. Goldfish bowls are especially harmful because bowls usually have a very tiny surface area with no room for a filtration system.
• A large tank gives your goldfish plenty of room to grow to their full potential. In a small 5-gallon aquarium, your goldfish will still grow. But growth will become stunted, and your goldfish won’t be able to develop properly. In such an environment, goldfish usually don’t last any more than a couple of years. Sadly, many goldfish never live long enough to even grow the 8 inches, 10 inches, or even 20 inches long their body was destined to be.
• Water changes can be very stressful in a small goldfish tank. Goldfish prefer water that maintains a constant temperature. A small aquarium just can’t hold enough water mass. The water will take on whatever temperature the room is, heating up or cooling down much faster than a larger goldfish tank with more water mass (more water allows for slower temperature changes). If someone happens to leave the window open or the power fails and cold air flows into the room, the quick temperature change will cause your goldfish serious stress. And if you’re doing a routine water change (small tanks require more frequent changes), your goldfish can go into shock if you aren’t careful to keep the newly added water the same temperature as the tank.
• Goldfish excrete tons of waste. More waste than most other fish species because of their heavy bodies. So every day that you let your goldfish tank sit, the water quality is getting worse and worse. When you change the water, you’re bringing the water quality back up to its original state. Because larger goldfish tanks have more water mass, the quality of the water decreases slower. Wastes are less concentrated. That’s why you won’t have to do as many routine water changes (or take out more water per change) to keep conditions healthy in a large aquarium. With a 5-gallon tank, you’ll probably have to change the water every day, taking out half of the water per change depending on how many goldfish you have (and how poor water quality is). If you’re late to change the water for whatever reason, your goldfish can quickly become sick.
• The bigger the tank, the less crowded it will be. Overcrowded tanks can cause serious health issues. Water quality worsens at a much faster rate as more waste dissolves and the water becomes more concentrated with harmful toxins. Fish also get more aggressive when they’re overcrowded. So not only are your goldfish stressed out from the poor water quality, but they’re now faced with aggressive tank mates. If they don’t suffer from a few bloody scrapes or torn fins first, a fungal infection is bound to rear its ugly head later.
• Your goldfish tank will fall short. We all have an idea of how we envision our goldfish tank to look like once everything is all set up and running properly. Some fish hobbyists might want to go all out, landscaping the aquarium with all sorts of live plants, pieces of driftwood, and gorgeous waterfall ornaments. Others might want a more simplistic look – a few plastic plants and maybe a treasure cave in the center with holes for hiding. Whatever you envision your goldfish tank to look like, chances are that you won’t be able to achieve the same look with a small aquarium. You’ll want to go much larger, and for some, this may even exceed the 20-gallon requirement.
• You’ll probably want to keep more than one goldfish. Two goldfish can’t thrive in a tank less than 20 gallons. And depending on the type of goldfish you’re keeping, you may need even more space than that. Besides, goldfish are social creatures and prefer the company. So consider how many goldfish (and which goldfish types) you want to keep before buying your goldfish tank.

Even with a large aquarium, you still don’t want to max your tank to capacity. Your goldfish will be a lot happier with a few gallons of extra space. So if you plan to keep four fancy goldfish, you might want to buy a 50-gallon tank, instead of a 40-gallon. Or even a 46-gallon bowfront aquarium.

Buy the biggest tank you can afford. You’ll be happy that you did.

Long or Wide?

Aquariums come in many different shapes and dimensions.

Photo by Ajari (Flickr)

The shape you choose should be carefully considered, since not all of them offer your goldfish the same benefits. Avoid equilateral hexagons, pentagons, and cylinders. These aquariums are usually too deep, and they don’t have a wide surface area like rectangle or bowfront aquariums.

Stay away from long, deep tanks. Goldfish are oxygen hogs and need the extra surface area in wide, horizontal setups. A wide surface area (the space at the top of the aquarium where water meets air) is crucial to keep oxygen levels up and carbon dioxide out. Long aquariums are also harder to work with, since you’ll have to reach far to move around ornaments or plants.

Besides, goldfish are much happier swimming across distances than they are swimming deep.

Acrylic or Glass?

Whether you buy an acrylic or glass aquarium is up to you. Both options have their benefits and disadvantages. Neither one is perfect.

Let’s compare the two.

Acrylic

• Acrylic aquariums are lightweight. In fact, if you take both a glass and acrylic aquarium of the same size and shape, the acrylic tank will be noticeably lighter. That’s because acrylic material is less than half the weight of glass. So you can move much larger acrylic tanks with less effort (and the floor and aquarium stand can more easily handle the weight).
• Acrylic aquariums are very durable. You don’t have to worry about major leaks from cracks or breaks. If there is some sort of collision (your kids are playing ball near the goldfish tank), the aquarium will just bend a little, depending on the force of impact. And since acrylic tanks are bonded rather than seamed together, they hold up better over the long term.
• Acrylic aquariums retain more heat. As you know, fluctuating water temperatures will stress out your goldfish. So by retaining more heat, the tank is able to keep the water temperature more constant.
• The sides of acrylic aquariums are spotless. They don’t have seams or silicone filled corners like glass tanks do (not only can seams take away from the visual appeal, but your goldfish tank can also leak if a seam gets damaged).
• Acrylic aquariums offer a clear, realistic view. The view isn’t as distorted as it is with glass. There’s also no green tint in acrylic material, as there is in some glass aquariums.
• Acrylic aquariums have more design options. You don’t have to stick with a plain rectangle-shaped tank. Enhance the beauty of your goldfish tank with a flat back hexagon or bowfront aquarium.
• Acrylic aquariums can scratch if you’re not too careful. But scratches can also be easily removed. A scratch is also much better than a crack (and potential leak).
• Acrylic aquariums can be a bit pricey. Often, you’ll find the same sized glass aquarium at a cheaper price.

Glass

• Glass doesn’t scratch. But it can break. And then you’re faced with a massive leak.
• Glass aquariums can hold their shape, even if unsupported. If you don’t support the whole acrylic aquarium on a stand, the material can bend over time.
• Glass aquariums maintain the same clarity for years. If you buy an acrylic aquarium made without UV stabilizers, it can yellow or cloud as it ages. Always check to make sure the brand you buy uses this technology before going acrylic.
• Glass aquariums are heavy. Many people recommend acrylic for goldfish tanks larger than 300 gallons, because by that point, glass just becomes too ridiculously heavy to lift (and you’ll need special equipment to even carry the empty aquarium past your front door). The extra weight is also a strain on your aquarium stand and floor.
• Glass aquariums have seams on the corners. Seams can often be damaged while scraping algae off the sides of the aquarium. And if a seam does get damaged, you may have a serious leak on your hands.
• While still clear, glass can have a green tint. This is from the iron in the glass. The more iron the glass has, the greener the tint. And so thicker glass aquariums usually have a greener tint than thinner ones.
• Glass design options are limited. You’ll usually only find glass aquariums in the traditional rectangle shape. But since these aquariums are rectangular, surface area is maximized to provide your fish with better aerated water.

The goldfish tank you choose is up to you. Either an acrylic or glass aquarium will do. But remember: Always buy the biggest aquarium you can afford. Make sure it’s wide (from left to right) and not long (top to bottom). Goldfish need the space to thrive. The more surface area your aquarium has, the better aerated the water will be.

Which Goldfish Tank Do You Prefer?

Do you buy glass or acrylic? What sized aquarium do you have? How many goldfish do you keep? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post Your First Goldfish Tank: Which Is the Better Option? appeared first on Complete Goldfish Care.

There are a lot of responses to this article – I’m very happy to have helped so many sick goldfish.

If you notice goldfish disease symptoms and need help, please scan the comments/replies already posted (click the link at the very bottom of the page to view previous comments). Your question might be answered already! And always test the water before writing a comment.

This is the first part in the goldfish disease series. In this three-part series, you’ll learn…

1. How to tell if your goldfish is sick (we’ll look at 14 goldfish disease symptoms)
2. How to treat 7 of the most common goldfish diseases in aquariums and freshwater ponds
3. How to keep your aquarium completely disease free by solving common tank problems

Goldfish are remarkably hardy creatures and don’t often fall prey to goldfish diseases. You just need to maintain good water quality, keep up with tank maintenance, feed your goldfish a varied diet, and test the water regularly. In fact, chances that you’ll find goldfish disease symptoms are slim if your goldfish are kept in a healthy aquarium environment with proper goldfish care.

You may be surprised to find out that most experienced aquarists have very little experience treating fish diseases. This is because they are experts at keeping their fish healthy. – David E. Boruchowitz, author of Aquarium Care of Goldfish

But even under the best conditions, goldfish aren’t entirely immune to diseases.

When you have sick goldfish, you want to catch goldfish disease symptoms early on to prevent goldfish diseases from spreading and infecting other fish in the aquarium.

Some infections are even fatal and can quickly kill your goldfish in a matter of days. This makes it even more important to have a medication like this on hand and treat goldfish disease symptoms quickly.

Treat Sick Goldfish Early

There are two types of goldfish diseases: those that are contagious and those that aren’t. Even if the infection isn’t contagious, you should still put your goldfish in a “hospital tank,” a smaller tank separated from the other fish, so that your goldfish can recuperate without being stressed out.

Separating infected goldfish prevents your healthy fish from receiving medication they don’t need (what is called being “over-medicated”).

First, we’ll look at abnormal behavior signs that could hint that something’s not quite right in the aquarium. Next, we’ll dive into the visual signs of diseases on the body and fins. Later, I’ll walk you through your next steps after you’ve discovered potential problems.

Let’s take a look at a few goldfish disease symptoms to look out for. If you notice any of these symptoms in your own aquarium, it might help to write them down on a notepad. This will make it easier later to determine what caused the goldfish disease and how to treat your sick goldfish.

Goldfish Disease Symptoms in Behavior

• Gasping for breath, rapidly breathing, or hanging at the water surface – One or more of your goldfish might be gathered at the surface of the water, noisily gobbling up packets of air or sucking in oxygen just below the surface. This usually happens when the water isn’t oxygenated enough for your goldfish to breathe comfortably (poor water quality). So sick goldfish will try to find any means they can to get more oxygen. If water quality doesn’t improve, the stress of not breathing in enough oxygen will lower the immune system and cause other goldfish disease symptoms to develop. If you notice gasping at the surface, test the water with a freshwater test kit immediately.
• Refuses to eat or losing weight – This is another goldfish disease symptom you should catch early. Goldfish are naturally ravenous creatures and will eat just about anything if given the chance. So a goldfish refusing to eat or showing noticeable signs of weight loss should be a warning sign that there’s a problem that needs closer looking into. Your goldfish might be suffering from internal parasites or poor water quality.
• Erratically swimming or swimming upside down – Erratic swimming is a sign of buoyancy problems. Trouble swimming could be caused by swim bladder disease, dropsy, or improper feeding (and sometimes feeding peas will help). Poor water quality might also be the culprit (or a result of overfeeding). If you look closely, are there other goldfish disease symptoms you may not have noticed?
• Listless or laying at the bottom – Healthy goldfish actively swim around and interact with their environment. If you have a sick goldfish that never gets up from the gravel, something is seriously wrong and you should take immediate action to find the underlying cause. Usually sick goldfish that are listless are also suffering from poor water quality or an infection.
• Slow to react to disturbances and stimuli – Are you about to feed your goldfish, only to find that one of them doesn’t seem to notice the food until it’s smack against his nose? Sick goldfish often have trouble reacting to certain things in their environment. Look for other goldfish disease symptoms, test the water quality, and do an immediate water change if test results are less than ideal.
• Rubs against the aquarium glass and other surfaces – This could be a sign of parasites, like ich, or even a fungus infection. At least, something is making your goldfish very itchy. If your goldfish is just rubbing his nose on the glass whenever you come nearby (what I like to call the “goldfish dance”), it could just be a friendly greeting and a demand to be fed (of course, don’t give in to those demands if you already fed your goldfish just moments ago).

Goldfish Disease Symptoms on the Body or Fins

• Clamped or folded fins – Maybe your goldfish constantly holds his fins close to his body or he’s lethargic and doesn’t move around much. There are actually a few potential goldfish diseases that can cause your fish to act this way, and your job is to look for other goldfish disease symptoms that might give the disease away. It might just be a case of poor water quality or parasites. Testing the water with a freshwater aquarium testing kit will give you a better idea of what is causing the problem and how to make the aquarium environment healthier for your goldfish.
• Torn or frayed fins – This is often a sign of stress, especially if you notice little red veins branching out in the fins. Simply changing the water and separating your goldfish from more aggressive fish can quickly solve this problem. If you find that the fins are actually starting to deteriorate into a stump, your goldfish may be experiencing fin or tail rot, which is caused by bacteria (and could attract fungus infections).
• Fluffy patches, discolored spots, or raised bumps – Do you notice a slight fuzz in some areas that shouldn’t be there? If your goldfish has discolored patches on the body or fins, chances are that he’s suffering from fungal or bacterial infections. Hospitalize the goldfish immediately and run some water tests on the main aquarium to determine what caused the goldfish disease symptoms. If the discolored patches actually look like little white specks of salt, your goldfish is suffering from ich, often known as white spot disease. Ich is fairly contagious (even common) in aquariums. If black spots are visible, your sick goldfish have an ammonia burn or parasite infection (this parasite is very rare in aquariums).
• Bloated or has raised scales – If one of your goldfish is abnormally round, large (be careful not to mistake this for a maturing female goldfish), or even resembles a pine cone, he may have dropsy (often caused by bacterial infections and sometimes incurable). A bloated sick goldfish might also be overfed or, if your goldfish have buoyancy problems, filled with packets of air after extended periods of time gasping for breath at the water surface.
• Pale gills – Pale gills can be caused by a number of goldfish diseases, including parasites. Salt is a popular treatment in this case, though you should also consider medications. Medications will depend on the type of parasite that is infecting your fish and can be determined by other goldfish disease symptoms.
• Noticeable lumps or parasites – External parasites are usually visible on the body or fins, and many will cause ulcers and lumps along the scales. Such parasites include ich (white spot disease), anchor worms, fish lice, and flukes. There are many ways you can get rid of parasites, ranging from medication to salt baths. You can even have them manually removed (though I don’t recommend this unless you know what you’re doing).
• Protruding eyes – If one or both eyes of your goldfish are abnormally large (don’t mistake this for natural characteristics in black moor or telescope goldfish), this could be early goldfish disease symptoms of pop eye or a bacterial infection.
• Bleeding wounds, sores, or missing scales – Do you have aggressive or territorial fish in the same aquarium? Solving this problem could just be a matter of finding a separate tank to house your goldfish. Your goldfish could also be infected with parasites, causing him to rub on gravel or other sharp objects.

By catching goldfish disease symptoms ahead of time, you can prevent infections from getting worse, spreading, and taking over the aquarium. And by taking immediate action to treat the disease, your sick goldfish has a better chance of surviving through the infection.

It’s always a good practice to watch your goldfish on a daily basis for signs of abnormal behavior or growths. A good time to do this is right before or during feeding.

Once you’ve noticed signs of a potential disease, you’ll want to put the sick goldfish into a hospital tank as soon as possible so that other fish in the same tank don’t get infected. Then you’ll need to determine what caused goldfish disease symptoms (so that you can effectively treat the disease) and identify problems running rampant in your tank. We’ll discuss more about this in the third part of the series.

You’ll then be able to take measures to ensure your other goldfish don’t get similarly infected.

Test the water with an aquarium test kit will help you identify tank problems. Also think back to events that led up to this point. Did you recently just introduce a new goldfish to the aquarium (without quarantining him first)? Did you just add new water to the tank without letting it adjust to room temperature?

Instead of looking for terrible diseases, you should concentrate on keeping your fish healthy. – David E. Boruchowitz, author of Aquarium Care of Goldfish

Remember: the best cure for any disease is prevention. By keeping your goldfish in a healthy environment, you reduce their chances of getting fatal goldfish disease symptoms. And it’s much easier to care for healthy fish than it is to treat sick goldfish.

How About You?

What sort of goldfish disease symptoms have you noticed? How did you treat your sick goldfish? Are there any goldfish care tips you can offer to help prevent infections? I’d love to hear from you!

The post Goldfish Disease Symptoms: 14 Early Signs that Your Goldfish Are Sick appeared first on Complete Goldfish Care.