Hi everyone! Today we have an exciting surprise.

We’re now offering limited edition goldfish shirts! And first up is…

The Goldfish Pirate

Fun, humorous, and fin-nipping cute.

Playing on the popular Internet meme, the first tee in our new t-shirt line features a pirate goldfish swimming next to a treasure chest. To kick off the line, we wanted to design something lighthearted and funny – a goldfish shirt that would put a smile on everyone’s face, not just the person wearing them!

Right now, we’re offering three shirt styles, available in many different colors! So you can personalize your shirt exactly how you want it. And if you know someone who likes goldfish, these shirts make wonderful gifts!

And because these t-shirts are still relatively new, the goldfish pirate will only be available for a very short time – 11 days in fact (only until February 13th).

Plus, get 10% off your purchase if you order within the next 5 hours! Cool, right?

So why are we doing this?

Our designs are still experimental. We want to test our ideas and, if enough people like the shirts, we’ll put them back on sale (and possibly add them to our permanent line). That’s why these goldfish pirate t-shirts will only be available until February 13th.

Why Goldfish T-Shirts?

It’s no secret that we love goldfish.

To help build awareness and support the fishkeeping hobby, we wanted to design t-shirts goldfish aquarists everywhere would proudly wear. It’s our hope that, by wearing our t-shirts, more people will come love goldfish too.

How to Pick Up Your Very Own Limited Edition Goldfish Shirt

Interested in buying one of our goldfish pirate t-shirts? Awesome!

You can order yours by visiting our sales page here (and get 10% off your purchase – no coupon code needed).

Simply choose your style (we offer premium tees for both men and women, plus a hoodie for those cold snowy days ahead), pick any color from the ones listed, and click the big green “Buy It Now” button. You’ll then be prompted to pay with either PayPal, Visa, or MasterCard.

Your goldfish shirt will be shipped when the campaign ends February 13th. But to secure your discount, you must buy it within the next 5 hours! Shirts are then shipped, and your package will arrive 9-12 business days after February 13th.

Order Yours Today: 5 Hours Left to Get 10% Off!

Don’t miss out! Your discount can only be applied for a limited time.

But if you missed the deal, don’t worry!

These goldfish pirate t-shirts will still stay in stock until February 13th, at the original price. Afterwards, though, you may not get another chance to buy this tee!

What’s Next?

Goldfish. Pirates. Treasure. What more could you want?

Well, actually, we’re not done yet! In the next week, we plan to launch a Valentine’s Day-themed goldfish shirt specifically for our audience. Yes, that’s you! Look forward to that soon, with many more designs to come!

So what do you think? Are you excited about our new tees? Have suggestions for future goldfish t-shirts?

All feedback, questions, and suggestions are welcome!

The post Just Launched: New Goldfish Shirt Line appeared first on Complete Goldfish Care.

How much salt do you need to keep your goldfish alive and paddling?

It depends on what you’re using the salt for. If you want to prevent goldfish diseases, you won’t need much of it. But if you’re treating goldfish parasites, you might consider a salt bath.

Don’t worry if this all sounds confusing. We’ll walk through it, step by step.

First, we’ll compare different methods on how to use aquarium salt. Then we’ll determine the aquarium salt treatment that’s right for your tank.

Let’s dive in.

Aquarium Salt Treatment #1: Keep Your Tank Salted at All Times

Maintaining a low level of salt in your tank not only treats ugly goldfish diseases.

It prevents them.

An aquarium salt treatment can also be used regularly to reduce goldfish stress and stimulate slime coat production. Plus, salt can kill off parasites harmful to goldfish, nipping one problem in the bud!

How to Use Aquarium Salt Regularly

You don’t need a lot of salt for it to be effective. In fact, I recommend using very little aquarium salt as a preventative.

Let’s take a look at how to use aquarium salt, whether or not you’re treating infections.

• When preventing goldfish diseases: Add ½ teaspoon (or less!) for every gallon (about 4 liters) in your aquarium. After a partial water change, treat the amount of water you took out of the tank.
• When reducing stress or treating parasites: Add 1 tablespoon (3 teaspoons) for every 5 gallons (19 liters) of aquarium water. If you’re performing a partial water change, only add the correct amount of salt to water taken out.

The higher the dosage, the more concentrated the salt.

When you’re dealing with parasites, you’ll want salt concentrations to be slightly higher than your routine salt treatments. The higher concentration makes the aquarium salt treatment more effective.

This means that killing off icky parasites will be much easier. And at the same time, you’re not stressing out your poor goldfish with the increased salt concentration.

But never add salt when topping off the goldfish tank (replacing evaporated water).

Salt doesn’t evaporate, so you’d be adding more salt than your goldfish need. Too much of an aquarium salt treatment can be very stressful. Only add salt with every water change (and only for the amount of water you took out).

But watch out! This type of treatment does have its drawbacks.

Pitfalls of a Routine Aquarium Salt Treatment

While adding salt regularly can help prevent goldfish diseases, you might run into a few problems.

• Using salt as a preventative can make parasites resistant to salt treatments. So if your goldfish get sick, you may have to stick to medications instead.
• By adding salt all of the time, your goldfish are constantly producing extra slime. This can be as uncomfortable as wearing an extra jacket during the winter season, even if you’re guarding against cold. Salt also acts as an irritant (that’s how it thickens the slime coat!).
• Salt and aquatic plants don’t mix. And some plants simply don’t tolerate salt well. Even so, most plants should do fine with a little bit of aquarium salt.
• A regular dosage can reverse the effects of zeolite (filter media that removes ammonia). Sure, salt recharges zeolite (but only by making it release all of that pent-up ammonia it had absorbed). So if you’re using zeolite in your filter, remove it before an aquarium salt treatment.

With so many disadvantages, should you even add salt regularly?

If you’re maintaining healthy conditions in your aquarium, your goldfish aren’t likely to get sick in the first place. So you wouldn’t really need to use salt as a preventative.

But it’s up to you. This type of aquarium salt treatment might be useful if you’re keeping goldfish in uncomfortable conditions temporarily. It will help prevent infections until you can move your goldfish to their primary home.

If you prefer only to use salt when your goldfish are sick, there’s a better method. It’s called the salt dip.

Aquarium Salt Treatment #2: Only Treat Your Tank When Needed

One school of thought is that salt doesn’t belong in tanks at all times.

Instead, many aquarists like to use salt only to treat stress and parasites – when there are symptoms. Aquarium salt can also be used in emergency situations, when nitrite levels are at their peak. And it’s particularly effective in quarantine and hospital tanks.

You can either add salt directly into the aquarium (1 tablespoon or 3 teaspoons per 5 gallons) or perform a salt dip (a short-term salt bath).

Below, we’ll talk about the latter – how to give your goldfish a salt bath. But first, you’ll want to set up a hospital or quarantine tank your goldfish will stay in until you’ve eradicated all parasites in the main aquarium.

Already have a quarantine tank up and running? Great! Let’s move on to the next step…

How to Use Aquarium Salt in a Salt Dip to Treat Infections

Doing a salt dip is actually pretty easy (even though the very idea may be a bit scary!).

By exposing your goldfish to salt temporarily, you can quickly eradicate parasites. And all you need is a 5-gallon bucket or tank with a working airstone (make sure to attach it to the appropriate air pump), some aquarium water, and the salt of course!

How to use aquarium salt in a salt dip? Let’s walk through the steps.

1. Fill a bucket with aquarium water (remember how many gallons that bucket can hold). Make sure it has the same temperature and pH as your tank water. You don’t want to shock your goldfish!
2. Mix the salt solution. Pour in 30 teaspoons of non-iodized salt for every gallon (4 liters) of water (source). Stir the solution until the salt is dissolved.
3. Gently scoop your goldfish into the aquarium salt treatment. Wait five minutes, observing how your goldfish react to the water. If your goldfish act a bit odd, that’s normal. But if they roll over or rest to the side and can’t right themselves, return them to the quarantine tank (you may have to use the former salt treatment method or medicate instead). If all is well and your goldfish continue to swim upright, keep up treatment for 55 minutes more or up to a total of 2 hours (source).
4. Move your goldfish to a quarantine tank. This tank should have the same temperature and pH levels as the aquarium salt treatment. Ideally, you’ll want to use a fully-cycled 20-gallon aquarium (for one or two goldfish). But for a single goldfish, a 10-gallon quarantine tank may work as well.
5. Treat the primary aquarium to get rid of any remaining parasites. You can use salt or a medication for this. Once you’re sure that you’ve killed off all parasites (this will depend on the parasite life cycle), you can re-introduce (acclimate) your goldfish to their now parasite-free environment.

A salt dip can head off potentially nasty infections, deteriorating slime coats, painful wounds, and a bulk of other problems. But because salt doesn’t evaporate, you should remove the aquarium salt treatment with a series of water changes once you’ve killed the parasites.

One Disadvantage of a Salt Dip: It Can Be Stressful!

Luckily, your goldfish won’t stay in the salt solution for very long. And by the time you’re done with treatment, your goldfish should be parasite free!

But during the aquarium salt treatment, keep an eye on your goldfish.

If your goldfish aren’t responsive, give them a soft pat to get them moving. If even that doesn’t work, remove your fish from the aquarium salt treatment right away. Some goldfish diseases can take a toll on fish – and your goldfish might be too weak for the salt dip.

Of course, you’ll still need to treat the entire aquarium after the salt dip. So keep your goldfish in a quarantine tank until you’ve exterminated every last parasite.

Which Method Is More Effective?

You’ve learned how to use aquarium salt. But which aquarium salt treatment is your best bet?

Choose the option that makes the most sense to you.

Many goldfish hobbyists recommend using a salt dip when necessary, but adding salt to your aquarium regularly can reduce stress when goldfish are already in an uncomfortable environment.

But while salt can be a good preventative, you also want the immune system to keep running strong (and regularly putting salt in the tank can make parasites more immune to the salt, especially if you don’t change concentrations).

Regardless of which choice you make, stay away from salts with additives!

The extra stuff in table salt can be harmful. Special aquarium salt (designed for freshwater fish), non-iodized rock salt, or kosher salt is generally what you will want to work with.

Anything else might endanger your aquatic friends – and that’s the opposite of what you want an aquarium salt treatment to do.

Your Turn: How Do You Use Aquarium Salt?

What to do you think? Should you add salt regularly or only when you need it? What’s your preferred method of treatment?

Post your thoughts in the comment section below!

The post How to Use Aquarium Salt: An Aquarium Salt Treatment Guide appeared first on Complete Goldfish Care.

“Water, water everywhere and not a drop to drink.”

You might know this quote from The Rime of the Ancient Mariner. A man is adrift on the ocean, water as far as the eye can see and yet dying of thirst because people can’t drink salt water.

Tough break.

But for goldfish, freshwater aquarium salt (when used effectively) can provide many benefits. Too much, of course, and you’ll do more harm than good – just like with any substance that is overdosed.

Already know the benefits? Skip to the aquarium salt treatment guide to determine how much salt to put into your aquarium

But if you’re new to salt treatments, the very concept might sound ridiculous. Why on earth would you add aquarium salt? After all, goldfish are freshwater fish.

Why Salt Is Good for Goldfish (Not So Much for Humans)

Actually, adding salt to a freshwater tank isn’t too unheard of. Not at all.

You might already know that salt reduces stress. You’ve probably heard that salt treats parasites, even. But one benefit that isn’t often talked about is osmoregulation.

The cells in your goldfish contain a specific salinity (or salt and water balance). At every moment, small traces of salt trickles back into the water from your goldfish’s body. To keep up with this, your goldfish have to constantly reabsorb small amounts of salt from the environment.

Luckily, aquarium water naturally provides some salt – though the amount of salt in a freshwater aquarium is much smaller than the salt density in a saltwater aquarium. And rightly so, because too much salt could seriously hurt – even kill – your goldfish!

But by adding a small amount of freshwater aquarium salt during stress, you’re boosting the salinity in your aquarium just enough to make things easier for your goldfish. This can have all sorts of benefits.

• Freshwater aquarium salt reduces stress. Some goldfish diseases can stop the gills from functioning properly. If your goldfish don’t absorb enough electrolytes from the water (because they’re under stress), they could go into an osmotic shock. Salt replenishes much-needed electrolytes, helping your goldfish maintain a healthy flow of oxygen and carbon dioxide.
• Aquarium salt helps goldfish recover faster from infections. When small amounts of aquarium salt are added, your goldfish don’t have to work as hard (or absorb as much water) to maintain the salt density in their bodies. Your goldfish actually save more energy to fight off diseases and heal painful scrapes – very much like how rest helps you and me recover from nasty colds.
• Aquarium salt kills off parasites. Freshwater aquarium salt disrupts the salt/water balance in the cells of harmful organisms, dehydrating them until they let go of your goldfish and eventually die off. For this reason, salt baths are particularly effective treatments for parasite infections.
• Freshwater aquarium salt prevents nitrite poisoning. If your filter suddenly stops working or you’ve just set up a new tank (that isn’t fully cycled), nitrite levels may spike – and nitrite poisoning can be deadly! Chloride ions in aquarium salt reduce nitrite absorption, preventing nitrite poisoning when nitrite levels are high.

Some invertebrates (like snails) and plants are very sensitive to salt. And if your aquarium uses zeolite to cut down on ammonia, effects may be reversed during a salt treatment. Always remove sensitive invertebrates and zeolite before adding any type of salt.

Freshwater aquarium salt can be used as a preventative to help keep your goldfish healthy or as a treatment to cure common goldfish diseases (especially when parasites are to blame).

But what type of salt should you use? Let’s look at your options.

Keeping Salt Goldfish Friendly: 3 Types of Freshwater Aquarium Salt

Some salt (like table salt) can be bad news for goldfish. Luckily, you’re not just limited to table salt.

Adding salt regularly? Aquarium salt is a good choice. But if you want to keep your options open, rock and kosher salt are healthy alternatives.

• Freshwater aquarium salt is quite different from the salt you keep in your kitchen cabinet. Created from evaporated sea water, this salt contains no harmful additives like table salt and is specifically made for freshwater aquariums. Plus, you can buy it from any pet shop where fish are sold.
• Non-iodized rock salt and kosher salt are made up of just sodium chloride (unlike table salt that can contain iodine and calcium silicate). No extra ingredients are added, making these types of salt great for goldfish aquariums.

When introducing salt to the aquarium, never use table salt that contains additives. Toxic additives and spices in table salt can be deadly to goldfish.

Aquarium salt is a powerful tool against stress and parasite infections. But don’t overdo it!

Like all freshwater fish, goldfish can only take so much salt before it becomes harmful. When performing a salt treatment, keep an eye out for signs of stress. Reduce treatment or stop treatment altogether if your goldfish seem agitated.

Do You Treat Your Aquarium with Salt?

What type of salt do you use? Do you regularly add freshwater aquarium salt as a preventative or only as a treatment when you notice signs of stress?

Add your suggestions to the comment field below!

The post Should You Add Freshwater Aquarium Salt to a Goldfish Tank? appeared first on Complete Goldfish Care.

When you’re carrying a basket down a pet store aisle brimming with water conditioners – each promising to make tap water safe for your goldfish – it’s easy to be overwhelmed.

With a mountain of choices, which is the best aquarium water conditioner?

It depends. The best aquarium water conditioner for your particular needs may not be the best option for the pet owner next door. So how do you make the decision?

Some water conditioners are specialized for certain situations (for instance, API Stress Coat is particularly effective in hospital tanks), while others are designed for specific aquarium sizes (Seachem Prime is highly concentrated, so it’s more convenient in large aquariums).

In this article, we’ll compare four popular water conditioners. We’ll weigh the pros and cons and take a look at the highlights – what sets each water conditioner apart. By the time we’re through, you should be able to determine the best aquarium water conditioner for your tank.

Let’s dive into your options.

The Best Aquarium Water Conditioner: A Product Comparison

Though some water conditioners include extra additives, the fundamental goal of a water conditioner is to make tap water safe for your goldfish. For this reason, I recommend buying a water conditioner that neutralizes both chlorine and chloramine at the very minimum (you can read more on how water conditioners work).

But how do the top four water conditioners compare?

The following chart analyzes the most popular water conditioners on the market. You’ll get a quick glimpse on how each conditioner differs (hopefully making it easier to find the best aquarium water conditioner for your goldfish). Later, we’ll look at each product in detail.

Already selected the best aquarium water conditioner? Hold on!

Before you make a hasty decision, let’s take a closer look at each product in turn.

API Stress Coat

API Stress Coat doesn’t just remove chlorine. It promotes a safe environment for your goldfish by neutralizing chloramine and detoxifying harmful heavy metals in tap water.

This water conditioner leverages the natural healing abilities of Aloe Vera to nurse your goldfish back to health, healing damaged tissue and torn fins faster.

When goldfish are sick or hurt, the slime coat might take the brunt of the attack. Without a slime coat to shield off infection, goldfish can be even more vulnerable to diseases.

Not only does API Stress Coat reduce stress, but it also creates a synthetic slime coat. The extra slime protection helps your goldfish fight off infection, safeguarding against electrolyte loss during stress and boosting oxygen flow through the gills.

If your goldfish are under a lot of stress, API Stress Coat might be the ticket out. In fact, API Stress Coat is scientifically proven to reduce fish stress by 40%.

1 teaspoon (5 ml) of water conditioner treats 10 gallons (38 liters) of water, with one 16-oz bottle treating 960 gallons of aquarium water.

Depending on the size of your goldfish tank and water changing schedule, API Stress Coat offers 6 bottle sizes:

1. 1-oz bottle treats 60 gallons or 227 liters
2. 4-oz bottle treats 240 gallons or 908 liters
3. 8-oz bottle treats 480 gallons or 1,817 liters
4. 16-oz container treats 960 gallons or 3,634 liters
5. 64-oz container treats 3,840 gallons or 14,535 liters
6. 1-gallon (128-oz) jug treats 7,680 gallons or 29,072 liters

Cap can be used for measuring on smaller bottles. Available large container sizes make it easy to manage multiple aquariums at the same time (and save money with every ounce!).

API Stress Coat may very well be the best aquarium water conditioner for quarantine and hospital tanks. Add this water conditioner to every water change, following the instructions on the bottle.

Tetra AquaSafe Plus

Tetra AquaSafe Plus quickly converts tap water into a safe haven for goldfish, neutralizing chlorine and chloramine on the spot.

But it doesn’t stop there! This handy water conditioner detoxifies poisonous ammonia and heavy metals, creating a risk-free environment for your goldfish.

Tetra AquaSafe is rich in important vitamins and minerals, filling the gaps where tap water is lacking and promoting energetic breeding behavior during the early months of spring. With stress-reducing slime, your goldfish can stay active and healthy all year long.

Tetra AquaSafe Plus also includes an advanced BioExtract formula that features natural biopolymers produced from kelp. These seaweed extracts boost biological filtration, strengthening beneficial bacterial colonies that keep your aquarium water clear and healthy.

1 teaspoon (5 ml) treats 10 gallons (38 liters) of aquarium water, and one 16.9-oz bottle treats 1,014 gallons of water.

Depending on your aquarium size and water changing frequency, Tetra AquaSafe Plus offers five different bottle sizes:

1. 1.69-oz bottle treats 101 gallons or 382 liters
2. 3.38-oz bottle treats 202 gallons or 765 liters
3. 8.4-oz bottle treats 504 gallons or 1,908 liters
4. 16.9-oz bottle treats 1,014 gallons or 3,838 liters
5. 33.8-oz bottle treats 2,028 gallons or 7,677 liters

You can use the bottle cap for measuring. Shake well before use and always read the directions on the bottle.

With its seaweed extract and unique blend of vitamins, Tetra AquaSafe Plus might be the best aquarium water conditioner for breeding tanks. Use it when setting up a new aquarium or with every partial water change.

Seachem Prime

Seachem Prime not only plays the role of a chlorine and chloramine neutralizer! Heavy metals and harmful toxins don’t stand a chance.

Prime is a concentrated solution that cuts down on nitrite and nitrate. Unlike some water conditioners, Prime doesn’t just break the ammonia/chlorine bond in chloramine either. It also removes toxic ammonia, turning harmful chlorine into a safe substance.

When the immune system is at its lowest, new goldfish are especially susceptible to goldfish diseases during shipping and handling. And after a long car ride home, a new aquarium environment can be just as stressful.

Seachem Prime stimulates natural slime coat production, helping your goldfish fend off infection without the use of synthetic or artificial slime compounds found in some water conditioners.

You don’t need a lot of Prime for it to work its magic. In fact, this water conditioner is the second most concentrated dechlorinator on the market (source)!

1 teaspoon (5 ml) treats 50 gallons (189 liters) of water, while a single 16.91-oz bottle treats 5,073 gallons of water.

Prime offers 6 different bottle sizes:

1. 50-ml (1.69-oz) bottle treats 507 gallons or 1,919 liters
2. 100-ml (3.38-oz) bottle treats 1,014 gallons or 3,838 liters
3. 250-ml (8.45-oz) bottle treats 2,535 gallons or 9,596 liters
4. 500-ml (16.91-oz) bottle treats 5,073 gallons or 19,203 liters
5. 2-liter (67.63-oz) container treats 20,289 gallons or 76,802 liters
6. 4-liter (135.26-oz) container treats 40,578 gallons or 153,604 liters

Bottle cap can be used for measuring solution. Make sure to follow the instructions on the bottle.

Prime is especially popular in goldfish aquariums because it’s extremely concentrated. If you’re a hardcore goldfish hobbyist, Prime might be the best aquarium water conditioner if you like yours to last awhile. You’ll save money no matter which bottle size you use.

Seachem Prime is effective for routine use, regular water changes, or setting up a new aquarium. If fish-in cycling, you can also use Prime throughout the nitrogen cycle to keep ammonia and nitrite levels under control.

Aqueon Tap Water Conditioner

Sometimes you don’t need all of the extra additives that come along with a fancy water conditioner.

Aqueon’s standard water conditioner includes everything you need to make tap water safe for goldfish, neutralizing both chlorine and chloramine. The conditioner also restores your goldfish’s natural slime coat at the same time that it detoxifies heavy metals and ammonia from chloramine and fish waste.

1 teaspoon (5 ml) treats 10 gallons (38 liters) of aquarium water, and a 16-oz bottle includes enough solution for 960 gallons.

Aqueon Tap Water Conditioner offers 5 bottle sizes:

1. 2-oz bottle treats 120 gallons or 454 liters
2. 4-oz bottle treats 240 gallons or 908 liters
3. 8-oz bottle treats 480 gallons or 1,817 liters
4. 16-oz bottle treats 960 gallons or 3,634 liters
5. 1-gallon (128-oz) container treats 7,680 gallons or 29,072 liters

Attached dosage cap can be used for measuring.

If your goldfish never get sick and you’ve already established a healthy aquarium environment with adequate filtration, Aqueon might be the best aquarium water conditioner for your tank.

The standard Aqueon Water Conditioner can be used any time you add new water to the aquarium, whether setting up a new tank or performing partial water changes. Follow the directions on the bottle.

Depending on the water conditioner brand you buy, how much conditioner you actually need to safely treat tap water will vary. No matter how slight the difference, always follow the instructions on the back of the bottle exactly.

After all, they’re there for a reason!

So, What Is the Best Aquarium Water Conditioner?

The water conditioner you ultimately stick with is up to you.

No conditioner is the best aquarium water conditioner for all situations: each has its own unique benefits. Just make sure to treat tap water with a solution that neutralizes both chlorine and chloramine, detoxifying harmful heavy metals that might take a toll on your goldfish’s health.

Once you find the best aquarium water conditioner for your tank, you can rest easy knowing your tap water is 100% safe for your fish inhabitants (as long as you keep up with regular water testing of course!).

How About You: Do You Have a Personal Favorite?

What is the best aquarium water conditioner for your goldfish? Which water conditioners do you use?

Share your thoughts in the comment section below!

The post Buying the Best Aquarium Water Conditioner for Your Goldfish appeared first on Complete Goldfish Care.

Think tap water is safe if it sits overnight?

You’re not alone. Yes, maybe this was true in the old days. But if you stick to the 24-hour rule now, you could be putting your goldfish at risk.

Why? Doesn’t chlorine evaporate after 24 hours?

It does. Though, with the addition of chloramine (what happens when chlorine and ammonia are bonded together), ammonia gets left behind even as the chlorine takes off.

With adequate filtration, this might not be a problem. But since goldfish add their own ammonia load to the water (and a hefty helping at that), your biofilter might have a hard time managing all that waste.

That’s why it’s always good to remove chlorine and ammonia from tap water. Lucky for goldfish, a tap water conditioner does just that.

Not only are water conditioners effective for neutralizing chlorine, many tackle this very chloramine problem to make the resulting ammonia completely harmless and safe for your goldfish.

The Magic of Magnetism: How a Tap Water Conditioner Works

If you didn’t think the chlorine problem could get any worse, you’re in for a shaky awakening!

If you just take tap water and pour it into an aquarium with live goldfish, invisible compounds in the water can actually burn your goldfish’s gills, attacking the cells in living tissue. The next thing you know, your goldfish are rushing to the top of the aquarium, frantically gasping for breath.

If the chlorine isn’t removed – and soon – death could quickly follow.

Photo by Jenn Durfey

Water districts disinfect bacteria and pathogens with chemicals like chlorine and chloramine, making tap water safe for humans to drink. But these same chemicals are dangerous to pet goldfish.

Here’s when water conditioners come to the rescue.

A tap water conditioner works by neutralizing chlorine, forming ionic bonds and rendering the chlorine harmless. The tap water is then goldfish-friendly, completely safe for both goldfish and beneficial bacteria that keep your aquarium water healthy.

Think of it like this – harmful tap water is full of positive charged magnets called chlorine that magnetically stick to your goldfish’s gills. When you use a tap water conditioner, negative charged magnets get to work, attracting harmful disinfectants. Now, instead of clinging to fish gills, the chlorine magnets stick to the conditioner magnets and the chlorine becomes harmless (source).

Water conditioners that neutralize chlorine are all well and good. But if your public water system disinfects tap water with chloramine, you’ll need a tap water conditioner that can split apart the chlorine/ammonia bond and tackle each separately.

Since water districts often switch between chlorine and chloramine, it’s best to play it safe and purchase a tap water conditioner that deals with both.

Tap Water Conditioners: What Are My Options?

Not all water conditioners are created equal. Some only neutralize chlorine (but not chloramine), while others offer a full package of features (that you may not need).

There are three main types of water conditioners.

• Dechlorinators: Using small amounts of sodium thiosulfate, these basic water conditioners quickly and effectively remove chlorine but won’t even touch ammonia or heavy metals!
• Chloramine Neutralizers: These useful water conditioners not only get rid of chlorine, but they also tackle pesky ammonia and sometimes heavy metals as well.
• Complete Conditioners: Handy water conditioners that neutralize chlorine and ammonia, these conditioners also detoxify harmful heavy metals and remove copper from water.

It’s not uncommon to stumble across chloramine neutralizers and complete conditioners in the pet store.

Fancy water conditioners might also include additional vitamins to boost the immune system. Some even reduce stress by replenishing the slime coat (that slimy sheen covering the scales and protecting goldfish from infections), providing them extra defense against hazardous goldfish diseases.

Luckily, water conditioners are pretty inexpensive and last a while before you need to restock your cabinet.

How Often Is Enough? A Foolproof Water Treatment Plan

Always condition tap water when you first set up a new aquarium and during each partial water change.

• When setting up a new aquarium: If you’re just getting the nitrogen cycle started and haven’t yet added any goldfish (for fishless cycling), you can hold off on buying a complete tap water conditioner and instead use a simple dechlorinator. This way, when chlorine is neutralized, the leftover ammonia will be fed to the beneficial bacteria to jump start the nitrogen cycle.
• With every water change: Water added after the initial tank setup should be treated with a chloramine neutralizer or complete tap water conditioner. If you don’t use either one of these, you risk killing off all the beneficial bacteria – and that could crash the nitrogen cycle!

Once you’ve set up your goldfish tank, you’ll only really need a tap water conditioner every time you perform your weekly water changes.

2 Ways to Treat Tap Water: Bucket or No Bucket?

Water conditioners work their magic in literally minutes.

You can condition your tank water one of two ways: in a bucket or directly in the aquarium.

Cautious? Try a Bucket

Simply fill a bucket with tap water and measure in the right amount of conditioner!

It helps to have your own tank-friendly teaspoon for measuring. You’ll also need to know how large your bucket is (and how much water can fill it).

You should only need just enough water conditioner to treat the amount of water in the bucket. I like to swirl the water in the bucket before filling the tank (so I know the tap water conditioner is mixed well).

Skip the Bucket and Go All In!

If you use a hose or water changer that attaches to your sink faucet, you can condition tap water as you splash it directly into the aquarium.

In this case, you may need to measure the right amount of conditioner for the full volume of your tank (follow the directions on the water conditioner bottle). Slowly drip the right amount of tap water conditioner into the stream of water as you fill your aquarium.

It may help to swirl the water around the aquarium to mix the conditioner with the tap water.

Whatever method you choose, always treat tap water with a water conditioner.

Remember: just because tap water looks clean, doesn’t mean it is!

There could be harmful chemicals running rampant behind the scenes – many dangerous compounds are colorless, even odorless, and invisible to the naked eye. Never take crystal-clear water as a sign that the water is healthy or safe for your goldfish.

By keeping water quality high, your goldfish will live long, happy lives.

Keep conditioning tap water and maintain a healthy aquarium environment with adequate filtration and routine water changes. You should also run weekly water tests with a freshwater test kit to ensure the water stays in tip-top shape.

How about you? Which tap water conditioner do you use?

The post Taking Risk Out of Water: A Tap Water Conditioner Guide appeared first on Complete Goldfish Care.

What’s the most important thing about a goldfish environment? It’s not the food, not the lighting, and not even that little diver with the treasure chest (though he does make for hours of entertainment).

You guessed it. It’s water!

Just like the air that fills your lungs, water supplies goldfish with essential oxygen. Without fresh and clean water, your goldfish can get sick. And if the water is filled with harmful toxins, there’s a slim chance your goldfish will survive.

After all, how long could you last if every breath set your lungs on fire?

If you plop your goldfish into tap water without treating tap water for goldfish first, stress could be the least of their problems. In fact, chlorine and heavy metals in the tap water can literally kill your goldfish overnight!

What’s wrong with using fresh tap water for goldfish?

Let’s go behind the scenes, taking a look at what could happen when goldfish meet tap water.

What’s in the Tap? Unraveling the Goldfish and Tap Water Mystery

Fresh tap water looks crystal clear, so it must be safe for goldfish right?

Not quite!

Invisible toxic substances that may be floating around in your tap water can be dangerous – even deadly – to your goldfish!

The culprits? Chemicals and heavy metals.

Chlorine and Chloramine: Goldfish Poison in Disguise

There’s a chance your tap water contains chlorine, a chemical that fights off nasty bacteria that could make you, me, and everyone you know sick if it weren’t for the chlorine keeping it in line.

Sometimes tap water is also disinfected with chloramine, basically a chlorine/ammonia combination that works overtime to make tap water safe to drink – for humans!

The problem is, goldfish can’t stand chlorine.

While a small amount of chlorine is bad for goldfish, the added ammonia in chloramine makes tap water even worse!

Chlorine and chloramine are completely invisible to the naked eye – you can’t see them but your goldfish will feel them. If you drop your goldfish directly into tap water containing chlorine, this damaging chemical will burn their gills and this gill damage can make it hard for your goldfish to breathe.

Not only can chlorine destroy the beneficial bacteria that keeps your aquarium water healthy, but it will eventually kill your goldfish if the tap water isn’t treated.

Heavy Metal Chemistry: Not a Rock Band

In addition to chemicals, tap water also contains heavy metals like cadmium, copper, lead, and zinc. While humans tolerate this without trouble, goldfish are very sensitive to most heavy metals.

Yes, goldfish do need small amounts of some heavy metals (zinc, for example). But if zinc concentrations are high, the overload can do more harm than help – damaging the gills and posing a life-threatening risk.

Goldfish are even less tolerant to lead and copper. Depending on your water source, these heavy metals can be abundant in large quantities!

Keeping Tap Water Safe for Goldfish: The Healthy Water Treatment

Goldfish can tell right away when they’ve been placed in dangerous tap water. They’ll frantically gasp for breath, rush to the water surface, and sometimes might attempt to jump right out of the water.

The worst news?

If you use tap water for goldfish that contains harmful chemicals or high amounts of metals (and leave it untreated), your goldfish won’t have long to live – at all. At most, your goldfish might survive until the early morning.

Don’t take any chances.

To make tap water safe for goldfish, you have to remove both chlorine-based disinfectants and heavy metals in the water. That’s when tap water conditioners come into play, neutralizing chlorine and getting rid of excess heavy metals that cause goldfish stress.

In a hostile environment, water conditioners are vital for keeping tap water for goldfish safe.

Plus, some water conditioners even include powerful stress coat boosters that help your goldfish fight off nasty goldfish diseases.

The Friendly Water Conditioner: Treating Tap Water for Goldfish

Before every water change, always treat tap water with a water conditioner.

With such a variety of water conditioners available, I don’t know a single pet store that doesn’t carry one. Some water conditioners only act as a dechlorinator (and just remove chlorine) while others completely condition your aquarium water – making tap water safe for goldfish, not only from chlorine but heavy metals as well!

Some water districts use chloramine in place of chlorine and others use both chloramine and chlorine. Treating chloramine will only neutralize the chlorine, leaving toxic ammonia behind.

Play it safe and always buy a conditioner that neutralizes both chlorine and chloramine, making tap water for goldfish safe the second it enters the water.

These three water conditioners (below) are great stand-alone conditioners and do a remarkable job treating tap water for goldfish. I’ve personally tried and recommend them.

• API Stress Coat helps stressed out goldfish recover faster by replacing the slime coat lost during infection and healing damaged tissue while it’s at it – all while neutralizing chlorine, removing chloramines, and detoxifying heavy metals in tap water.
• Tetra AquaSafe Plus makes tap water safe for goldfish by neutralizing chlorine, chloramines, and heavy metals while adding vitamins and minerals to the water. This conditioner also helps wounded goldfish rebuild their slime coats and boosts the growth of beneficial bacteria (essential for keeping your aquarium water healthy).
• Seachem Prime removes chlorine and chloramine in tap water, converting harmful ammonia into a safe, non-toxic substance. Prime also neutralizes nitrite and nitrate while detoxifying heavy metals in aquarium water, promoting a healthy slime coat to boot! Because Prime is highly concentrated, it’s a good option for large aquariums.

After choosing a water conditioner, you don’t need anything else to keep tap water for goldfish safe.

I use Seachem Prime in all of my tanks (because it’s concentrated) but I had used Tetra AquaSafe for over 8 years before switching to Prime. I recommend API Stress Coat when you’re treating goldfish diseases or after buying new fish (that could be stressed from handling).

When you treat tap water for goldfish, make sure to carefully follow the instructions on the bottle. As you mix the solution, your goldfish should be safe in conditioned water until the water conditioner has finished work.

Pre-Conditioned Water, a Tap Water Alternative

You can forgo the tap water altogether and buy special pre-conditioned water from a pet store.

Bottled pre-conditioned water is designed to make water changes as easy as possible. Simply twist off the bottle cap and pour the water directly into your aquarium.

Unlike the water you drink from plastic bottles (which you should never use in your aquarium), pre-conditioned water is teaming with important minerals – without the chemical risk of tap water. Some of the water is even oxygenated, which can be useful if you’re concerned that your water may not be getting enough oxygen exposure from its surface.

But when faced with large water changes (consequences of messy goldfish) and even larger aquarium sizes, oxygenated pre-conditioned water from the pet store can get pricey quickly. That’s why they’re usually designed for betta bowls instead.

Besides, water conditioners work just fine. And really, they’re all you’ll ever need.

Either way, you can rest assured that your goldfish will remain safe and happy – and that’s what matters.

Forgot the Water Conditioner? Make Tap Water for Goldfish Safe

Even if you accidentally put goldfish in tap water and you notice your goldfish acting strangely, you might still be able to save them in time.

Photo by Woodlouse

Act quickly!

Immediately treat the aquarium with a water conditioner, following the directions on the back of the container.

If there’s chlorine in the tap water, it probably already destroyed most of the beneficial bacteria in your aquarium filter. Move your goldfish to a cycled aquarium if possible until your established tank can complete the nitrogen cycle again.

At this point, the gills might already be damaged. Add an air stone to increase aeration (you’ll need airline tubing and an air pump for this). The air stone will boost oxygen levels in the water, making it easier for your goldfish to breathe.

If you ever suspect there might be a trace of chlorine or chloramine in the aquarium water, never leave it overnight! Treat tap water for goldfish quickly and your fish might have a fighting chance.

Always provide your goldfish with the highest quality water possible, complete with routine water changes and excellent mechanical/biological filtration. By treating harmful chemicals in tap water, your goldfish can live a long and healthy life.

Your Turn: How Do You Treat Tap Water for Goldfish?

Do you have a favorite water conditioner? What products do you use to keep tap water for goldfish safe?

Share your tap water stories in the comments below!

The post Using Tap Water for Goldfish: Goldfish and Tap Water Basics appeared first on Complete Goldfish Care.

Just like water changes, aquarium water testing should be part of your regular routine.

Most goldfish tanks should be tested at least once per week (or more frequently within the first months of setting up a new aquarium) and when you notice goldfish disease symptoms.

Aquarium test kits are absolutely vital for monitoring and keeping water parameters in your tank under control. By testing the water weekly, you’ll discover potential disasters before your goldfish’s lives are on the line.

You probably already discovered dozens of freshwater test kits on the market – each testing for completely different things!

So which water parameters should you test?

Vital Tests First: 4 Aquarium Water Testing Kits You Can’t Do Without

Some aquarium water testing kits need to be used weekly to keep your tank water healthy and clean – ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and pH are in the front of the line.

It doesn’t matter if your tank is just getting established or you’re in the sixth year running. If ammonia and nitrite run rampant in your aquarium, it could spell disaster for your goldfish!

Just getting the nitrogen cycle started? You can watch the stages unfold by testing for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. You may also want to test for pH, since pH can have a direct impact on how harmful ammonia is (and drastic pH changes can kill your goldfish!).

Let’s talk water parameters. We’ll take a quick dive into what each parameter is, how it impacts water quality, the best test kit to use, and why aquarium water testing should help.

1. Ammonia

Ammonia is produced when uneaten food and waste break down.

To beneficial bacteria, ammonia makes a delicious feast! But if the nitrogen cycle hasn’t completed (or something kills off all your good bacteria), ammonia can cause serious damage. Prevent problems with an aquarium water testing kit.

• Always keep ammonia at 0ppm (parts per million). Just getting your tank started? Sometimes small traces are inevitable (keep ammonia at 0.06ppm until the nitrogen cycle runs its course).
• Change the water immediately if ammonia is found in an established tank. Find the source. Ammonia is common in overcrowded tanks or when goldfish are overfed, especially when the biological filter can’t keep up.
• Ammonia can be tested weekly with an API Ammonia Test Kit (liquid reagent) or master test kit.

In an established tank, ammonia should never be a problem.

2. Nitrite

Nitrite is developed when beneficial bacteria break down ammonia.

Usually your biological filter will convert nitrite into nitrate before it’s a problem. But if ammonia gets out of hand, nitrite may soon follow.

• Keep nitrite at 0ppm (or below 0.75ppm if starting the nitrogen cycle).
• If nitrite levels increase over 0.75ppm, perform an immediate water change and boost aeration. Often, high nitrite levels can mean there’s a serious problem with ammonia (and the biological filtration in your aquarium).
• Test nitrite weekly, either with an API Nitrite Test Kit or master aquarium water testing kit.

While nitrite is only slightly less harmful than ammonia, it is still very toxic (and fatal) to goldfish.

3. Nitrate

Created when nitrite is broken down in the last stage of the nitrogen cycle, nitrate doesn’t harm goldfish unless levels are high.

Struggling with algae? Large traces of nitrate can attract this pretty common, yet very vexing plant, leading to unpleasant algal blooms.

• Keep nitrate levels below 40ppm (5 to 20ppm is ideal).
• If nitrate levels are high, perform a partial water change. Nitrate shouldn’t be a problem if you keep up with tank maintenance and aquarium water testing.
• Test nitrate weekly, either with an API Nitrate Test Kit or master test kit.

Nitrate should never be a problem if you’re performing regular water changes.

4. pH

pH measures how acidic or alkaline (basic) your aquarium water is, on a scale of 0 to 14.

The lower the reading, the more acidic your water is. When pH levels hit 6.5, the beneficial bacteria that keep ammonia under control start having trouble and the nitrogen cycle stops altogether at a pH of 6.0 and below (source) – this can cause dangerous ammonia spikes!

Likewise, the higher the reading, the more alkaline the water is. Ammonia is actually more toxic to goldfish when pH is high (source), while nitrite is more toxic at lower (acidic) pH levels (source). Also not good.

A reading of 7 is always neutral, and water hardness can affect pH.

• Goldfish love alkaline water and prefer a pH of 7.2 to 7.6. Though, even if the pH is close to this range (but not quite there), your goldfish should still do well.
• You should only change extreme pH readings and only do so in very small increments (drastic changes can kill goldfish). Use a product like PH Up or PH Down to raise or lower pH.
• Keep pH levels constant (and avoid changing it unless absolutely necessary). Test for pH weekly or if ammonia or nitrite become a problem, either with an API PH Test Kit or master test kit.

Instead of buying each test separately, you can save a little money and purchase a freshwater master test kit that includes tests for all four water parameters in one box.

Aquarium water testing kits can be purchased anywhere tank equipment is sold. You can also let your local pet store analyze a portion of your aquarium water. Watch out, though. Depending on the shop, there might be a small fee.

Keep test kits handy and you can ensure that water parameters never fall below the safe range. By maintaining top-quality water with aquarium water testing, your goldfish will thank you with vibrant colors and happy, long lives.

5 Useful Water Parameters Every Aquarist Should Consider

You can test for just about any imaginable water parameter in your aquarium.

Photo by Yuko (Flickr)

Master freshwater test kits give you everything you need to test well-known water parameters like pH, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. But while these four are the most important, you shouldn’t brush aside other helpful parameters as well.

When aquarium water testing, the following water parameters can help.

1. Copper

Copper is generally only a problem when using copper-based medications to kill off parasites (like white spot disease). Sometimes you may also notice copper in your tap water.

It helps to keep track of copper concentrations when treating parasite diseases. Aquarium water testing lets you know when copper-based medications are effective or if you should stop treatment (if copper gets out of hand).

• 1.5 to 2ppm of chelated copper sulfate (used in Mardel CopperSafe) is often recommended for treatment (source). When using any copper-based medication, follow the directions on the bottle.
• Test copper levels (0 to 4ppm) with an API Copper Test Kit.

Some invertebrates are very sensitive to copper and high traces of it are lethal to goldfish. Be careful to only use the correct dosage during any treatment with medication.

2. Chlorine

Chlorine in untreated tap water can be a huge problem – especially for goldfish! Luckily, there are many products (water conditioners) you can use to remove it. Learn more about how water conditioners work in this tap water conditioner guide.

If chlorine makes you nervous, you can test your conditioned tap water for chlorine before pouring it into your aquarium. But testing for chlorine won’t be necessary if you’re using a good water conditioner.

• There should be no chlorine in aquarium water.
• Tetra EasyStrips has a chlorine test built in (also tests nitrite, nitrate, GH, KH, and pH).

If chlorine is found in your aquarium water, it can literally kill your goldfish overnight! Always treat tap water with a water conditioner.

3. General Hardness (GH)

General hardness lets you know how hard or soft your aquarium water is.

The more dissolved minerals (like calcium and magnesium), the harder the water is. Low traces of dissolved minerals indicate that the aquarium water is soft.

• While goldfish do fine in both hard and soft water, 200 to 400ppm might be ideal.
• You can test both general hardness and carbonate hardness with an aquarium water testing kit.

4. Carbonate Hardness (KH)

Carbonate hardness helps keep the pH in your aquarium stable.

The lower the KH, the more pH can change (pH crashes are dangerous!). Increasing the carbonate hardness can prevent pH shifts.

• Raise KH when pH shifts become a problem, but don’t raise it too high. Water with a high KH (200ppm or more) may have high pH levels (source).
• Test carbonate hardness and general hardness with an aquarium water testing kit.

5. Phosphate

When wastes break down, phosphates are released into the water. While phosphate won’t hurt your goldfish, too much of it can cause unsightly algae growth.

• If algal blooms are an issue, testing phosphate might pinpoint the problem. The lower the phosphate, the better (in an unplanted tank). In planted aquariums, you may want to have a nitrate/phosphate ratio of 10:1.
• Test phosphate levels, from 0 to 10ppm, with an API Phosphate Test Kit.

Raising goldfish is a big responsibility. After all, their lives depend on your care!

While it may be easy to get caught up in things like aquarium size, shiny pebbled substrate, and vibrant foliage, you should never overlook water quality.

Crystal-clear water will trick you.

It’s impossible to tell whether the water is healthy for your goldfish unless you regularly test the water. You don’t have to test every water parameter listed above, but you should make aquarium water testing a habit (at the very minimum, test for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate).

Which Water Parameters Do You Test?

Do you test for certain water parameters? Has it helped you prevent infections?

Share your aquarium water testing experiences by submitting a comment below!

The post Aquarium Water Testing Made Easy: 9 Handy Water Parameters appeared first on Complete Goldfish Care.

Ammonia burns, agitated gills, and deteriorating fins.

Poor water quality can impact your goldfish in a myriad of ways. Sometimes, your goldfish might be so out of shape to even wiggle off their bottoms to eat. And if the water gets too far out of hand, your goldfish may not recover.

Prevent problems before they start.

Like all fish, goldfish are sensitive to water chemistry – particularly the amount of ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate in the water. But unlike many tropical fish, goldfish can make such a big mess – and excrete so much waste – that the beneficial bacteria in your aquarium won’t be able to handle it all without a good filtration system and regular water changes.

Aquarium test kits are so easy to use, yet so very crucial, it’s amazing how many hobbyists skip this one vital step.

How Do Aquarium Test Kits Work?

The water may look clear, but that doesn’t mean it’s safe for your goldfish. In fact, the water could be burning your goldfish’s gills and you wouldn’t even know it!

Photo by Jellaluna (Flickr)

Unless either the water became so unbearable to reveal visible signs of stress or you were using freshwater aquarium test kits on a weekly basis (which you should).

Providing a safe space for your goldfish isn’t as simple as just filling a tank with tap water (treated with a water conditioner of course).

Dangerous toxins are often invisible to the naked eye. Aquarium test kits help you find problem areas before they do serious harm to your fish.

If you…

• Suddenly start losing goldfish,
• Notice signs of stress,
• Or your goldfish become sick

…there might be something wrong with the water.

Not only do aquarium test kits help you find and prevent problems that could lead to serious goldfish diseases, you can watch the nitrogen cycle in real time when you first set up a new tank. In fact, testing for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate is the only way you’ll know whether your aquarium is fully cycled (and if you can add goldfish safely).

You don’t even have to know anything about water chemistry before testing water quality. No, really.

Aquarium test kits aren’t complicated – at all!

So Many Choices! Which Test Kit to Buy?

Inexpensive and long-lasting, freshwater aquarium test kits can save you a lot of trouble.

And if you ever get tired of buying different kits for each water parameter, you can pick up a freshwater master test kit that includes everything you need to test multiple parameters at once (saving money over the long run).

From test strips to liquid test kits, there are many types on the market. How are they different? Let’s take a look.

Water Test Strips (Dip Sticks)

If you’re constantly running errands or work around a busy schedule, you’ll love the convenience of these aquarium test kits.

• Water test strips are easy to use, providing results in literally minutes. Because they only require a quick dip in aquarium water, they’re especially popular with children and first-time fish owners.
• On the flip side, test strips can lose accuracy when exposed to air moisture. You may also pay more for the convenience.

Water test strips are simple to use, making water testing both fun and easy – especially for children!

Just quickly dip a strip into your aquarium water and wait for the results. Depending on the brand, it might take a minute or two. After colors develop on the test strip, compare the results with a chart that’s included in the kit.

Tetra EasyStrips (6-in-1 Test Strips) makes water testing painlessly easy. Designed for busy folks with hectic schedules, Tetra EasyStrips saves you time by testing multiple parameters at once.

Determine the health of your aquarium water with minimal effort. With just a quick dip of the test strip, you can receive accurate results in as little as 60 seconds.

Easy-to-use test strips include six common tests: chlorine, nitrite, nitrate, general hardness (GH), carbonate hardness (KH), and pH. With 25 or 100-strip packages, you can test each parameter up to 100 times.

Looking for ammonia test strips? They can be purchased separately.

Air moisture is one of the main reasons for inaccuracy. Avoid touching the test squares and always keep water test strips in a dry, air-tight container.

Liquid Test Kits

Known for their accuracy, these aquarium test kits use liquid reagents to test aquarium water. They’re a great alternative if you want to save a little money and don’t mind the extra preparation time.

• Liquid test kits can be more reliable than water test strips. Each kit also offers plenty of testing solution for hundreds of tests, and you only have to wait a few minutes for results to show.
• More difficult to use with a longer preparation time, liquid test kits can be overdosed. Discolored water may also tamper with results.

To test, simply fill a vial with aquarium water (don’t worry, your freshwater aquarium test kit will come with one!) and drip the testing liquid into the vial, following the instructions in your kit.

Certain parameters will require a specific number of drops of the testing solution. For other tests, you may need to give the vial a quick shake to mix the liquid. Once results develop, you can then compare them on a chart included with your liquid test kit.

A complete kit for testing the most vital water parameters, API Freshwater Master Test Kit offers over 800 highly-accurate tests in a single kit.

Equipped with everything you need to monitor water quality, this master test kit comes with a laminated color chart for easy color comparison, a holding tray for convenient storage, and four test tubes with snap-tight lids. A transparent dome protects your testing supplies from water damage.

An instruction booklet is also included, with detailed step-by-step directions on how to perform each test and correct problem areas in your aquarium.

Liquid solutions test for pH, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate.

To prevent problems, fill the vial exactly where the line indicates. And follow the instructions exactly as they appear in your instruction booklet.

For most aquarium test kits, shelf life can range from 6 months to 2 years (sometimes even longer). Make sure you pay careful attention to the expiration date and replace testing supplies once the expiration is reached (or your results might not be accurate!).

It helps to keep a record of your test results, so you can compare them later to previous tests. Then you have a constant visual of how the water chemistry is improving in your aquarium (and can make changes if you aren’t seeing good results!).

Water testing may seem daunting at first. But aquarium test kits make actual testing very simple, even for a complete beginner! You’ll get the hang of it in no time and, trust me, your goldfish will be happier for it.

The post Aquarium Test Kits: What You Don’t Know <em>Can</em> Hurt Goldfish appeared first on Complete Goldfish Care.

Goldfish need vegetables in their diet.

Without the leafy greens they crave, goldfish can develop nutritional deficiencies down the road. If you continued to give your goldfish just protein snacks, they’d become sick and lethargic, even flipping upside down.

Fancy goldfish especially are known for their swimming problems.

These fish have bulky bodies and tightly packed organs. Because of the distorted arrangement of their swim bladder and digestive tract, fancy goldfish aren’t strangers to constipation. If you have a floating-sensitive fish, your goldfish would appreciate more fiber, pre-soaked dry pellets, and a varied diet.

What better way to give your fish the nutrients they need than by feeding goldfish peas?

Why Feed Green Peas to Goldfish?

Two reasons.

1. Unlike this vegetable, green peas sink when placed under water. Sinking goldfish food is especially important for sensitive fish because they won’t have to search for food at the water surface… and suck in air bubbles while they’re at it.
2. Green peas are especially rich in fiber. According to this article, one cup of peas contains 7 grams of dietary fiber. That’s more than broccoli (2.4 grams), lettuce (1 gram), and spinach (0.7 of a gram) combined.

Fiber helps goldfish prevent constipation (and other known symptoms of swim bladder problems).

You might feed your goldfish a stable diet of dry and freeze-dried food, but without fiber from fresh vegetables, your goldfish might develop a blockage in the digestive tract. This blockage can cause your goldfish to lose equilibrium, have difficulty swimming, and even swim upside down!

Prevent Constipation By Feeding Goldfish Peas

Many goldfish hobbyists believe that green peas help push trapped air and food blockages from the digestive tract.

Photo by Liz West

The fact remains that without enough fiber, your goldfish will not be able to release waste after a feeding. This waste buildup can cause serious harm.

Goldfish are ravenous eaters and often poop out buckets. Without enough fiber to help bowel movements along, waste that your goldfish are constantly developing will get stuck and put pressure on the swim bladder (source). This pressure will prevent the swim bladder from inflating and deflating as it should. This causes goldfish to swim erratically.

Fancy goldfish with egg-shaped bodies are especially sensitive to swim bladder problems because of how their internal organs are positioned in the body. Often these organs are compressed to make up for their round body shape. The slightest blockage can put pressure on the swim bladder and prevent fancy goldfish from swimming properly.

At the same time, too much fiber will prevent your goldfish from absorbing important nutrients into the body (source), so it’s best to find a balance.

Fresh peas are very high in fiber, so they’re particularly effective for treating constipation (over other vegetables).

Feeding goldfish peas occasionally can prevent constipation, but don’t overdo it. We’ll talk about how many peas to feed (and when) later in this article.

While fresh peas can solve some floating problems, feeding goldfish peas won’t heal genetic swim bladder disease or permanently damaged swim bladders. Peas also won’t cure bacterial infections that may cause swim bladder problems. Feeding goldfish peas will only treat floating problems related to constipation.

Feeding Peas to Goldfish: A Step-By-Step Guide

Constipation can easily be prevented with a quality nutritional diet.

In this section we’ll take a look at how many peas to feed and how to prepare fresh peas before feeding time, including a step-by-step guide on feeding goldfish peas.

How Many Peas and How Often to Feed?

You know what they say…

A green pea a day week keeps the doctor away.

Green peas work great as a preventative against constipation, treatment for constipation, or nutritious snack. But you don’t want to go overboard. Too many peas will prevent your goldfish from absorbing some important nutrients they need to stay healthy.

If you’re…

• Treating constipation: Feed your goldfish a sole diet of peas daily for 3 days. If your fish are still constipated, you can continue feeding goldfish peas for 2 more days. If peas don’t solve the problem after 5 days, it’s likely that your goldfish aren’t constipated (and are suffering from poor water quality, a bacterial infection, internal parasites, or permanent swim bladder damage). When feeding goldfish peas, only feed 2-3 peas per goldfish. Young goldfish can receive half this amount. After treatment, resume your goldfish’s regular diet (and go easy on the feeding from now on).
• Preventing constipation: Feed goldfish fresh peas once per week to keep fiber levels up. Also include fresh vegetables twice per week for a well-rounded diet. Vegetables should be fed to supplement your goldfish’s stable diet of dry food. Fancy goldfish sensitive to swim bladder problems may also benefit from one day of fasting every week. Feed 2-3 peas per adult goldfish. Half this amount for younger goldfish.

As with any food you give your goldfish, too much of a good nutrient can be harmful. Striking a balance is key for long-lasting goldfish that thrive.

But don’t worry. If you follow the recommendations in this guide, you shouldn’t run into problems.

Let’s walk through the steps.

Step 1: Buy Fresh Peas from the Store

There are several varieties of peas you can feed to your goldfish. Each kind has its own nutritional value.

Photo by Andrew_Writer

• Garden peas – Garden peas are the most common variety found in stores. They may need to be chopped up for younger goldfish to consume.
• Snow peas – Snow peas are also called sugar peas and are very sweet. They’re pretty small, so it’s a lot easier to break them into bite-sized chunks.
• Snap peas – Snap peas are also sweet, though they’re about the size of garden peas. Snap peas may need to be chopped before feeding.
• Frozen peas – Frozen peas are a great alternative to fresh vegetables. You’ll need to thaw them out or run them under hot water though.
• Split peas – Split peas are bought dried, peeled, and split into two halves. While split peas need to be soaked in hot water (step 2), you can skip step 3 and step 4 in this guide.
• Canned peas – Canned vegetables are very high in sodium. Unless you buy all natural canned peas without added preservatives, I wouldn’t recommend them.

Goldfish aren’t fussy. They could care less what kind of peas you give them. You don’t even have to buy them organic.

Don’t buy seasoned peas for your goldfish though. Spices will make your goldfish sick and could cause serious harm.

My personal favorite is frozen peas. They’re easy to keep, easy to prepare, and can stay in your freezer for several years.

Step 2: Soften Green Peas for Consumption

Before feeding goldfish peas, remove peas from the pod if you bought them attached.

Now let’s prepare the meal.

You can soften peas one of three ways.

• Rinse your peas off with warm water. This method works great for frozen peas. Simply rinse frozen peas off with warm water for 15 – 30 seconds. This will soften them just enough for your goldfish. You can then let the peas defrost on a plate or napkin (if you need more time) before commencing to step 3.
• Place fresh peas into the microwave. This is the fastest method to soften fresh peas. Take a microwave-safe bowl and fill it partly with water. Plop in the peas and microwave them on high for 30 – 60 seconds. Take the bowl out and place the peas on a plate to cool off. Wait a couple minutes, then move to step 3.
• Boil fresh peas on the stove top. This method may take longer but is the most effective. Fill a pot partly with water and let the water come to a boil. Drop fresh peas into the pot and reduce heat. Boil the peas for 1 minute before pouring them into a strainer to cool off. Alternatively, you can replace the hot water with cold water instead of using a strainer. Let the peas cool for a couple minutes before moving to step 3.

The trick here is not to soften the peas so much that they’re mushy but just enough so that your goldfish can digest them easily.

If softened just right, the peas should not cloud the water during feeding time.

Step 3: Remove the Skin before Feeding Goldfish Peas

The thin skin around green peas can make your goldfish choke. That is, if it doesn’t get stuck on the roof of the mouth first.

Remove the skin by either…

• Tearing off the skin: With your fingers, tear a small hole into the skin. This hole can then be used to peel off the remaining skin from the pea. Do this for every pea you plan to feed your goldfish. Discard the skin.
• Squeezing the skin: Pinch a corner of the skin and the weight of the pea should help it slide out smoothly. Be careful though; if the insides are too soft, your peas might turn to mush. Complete this process for each pea, then throw away the skin.

I personally like poking a small hole into the skin and then carefully unwrapping the skin from the vegetable. The pea will keep its shape this way. Then you can cut each pea into equal sections (step 4).

Step 4: Cut Fresh Peas into Two Halves

When you remove the skin from green peas, usually each pea will already be divided into two parts with (what would be) the stem of the seed curved along the center. Cut along this line so that each pea is separated into two halves.

You can now feed your goldfish immediately or make the food even easier to eat in step 5.

Sure, you can squish together both halves of the pea to condense it and make it smaller for feeding. But I find the process of feeding goldfish peas to be a lot cleaner if you instead take the time to cut each pea into bite-sized chunks.

Some fish enthusiasts like feeding goldfish peas the second the peas are removed from the skin. However, your goldfish might have a better time enjoying the meal if you cut them up first. Your goldfish will be able to eat fresh peas quickly and the food won’t hang from their mouths while they munch.

Step 5: Slice Each Pea into Smaller Chunks

Do this especially for young goldfish that can’t fit a whole half of a pea in their mouths.

Cut every chunk (that you created in step 4) in half. Each pea should now be separated into 4 small chunks – a nice size to be easily digested.

I find that goldfish are able to eat these smaller chunks more easily than a whole pea. You can even further slice up each pea for smaller fish, though it may not be necessary.

Now you’re ready to feed the newly prepared meal to your goldfish!

Open the aquarium cover and sprinkle in a few chunks at a time. You should only feed 2 – 3 peas per adult goldfish (1 – 2 peas for younger fish).

An hour after feeding goldfish peas, check the substrate for uneaten food and remove them from the gravel (either with a siphon during a water change or a net).

Put leftover peas you didn’t feed into the freezer. You can defrost them and feed them to your goldfish next time.

Your Goldfish Aren’t Eating Peas?

Peas quickly sink to the substrate. If your goldfish have buoyancy problems, they likely won’t be able to get to the peas for feeding.

You can solve this problem by gently holding your goldfish and hand feeding.

Or, you can pick up a few clean toothpicks and push the opposite end of the pick through a whole pea or half a pea. Then hold the toothpick near your goldfish’s mouth for easy access. Make sure you don’t feed your goldfish with the sharp end – you don’t want to accidentally hurt your fish!

Live, frozen, or freeze-dried daphnia can be fed to your goldfish instead to treat constipation if you have daphnia on hand.

Remember: fiber-rich foods are only solutions for goldfish suffering from constipation. Damaged swim bladders are permanent (there isn’t a cure). Floating problems caused by bacteria, internal parasites, or poor water quality require their own special treatments (and can’t be treated by feeding goldfish peas).

Are You Feeding Goldfish Peas?

What types of peas do you feed? How do you prepare your peas for feeding? What other steps do you take before feeding goldfish peas? Have peas worked for you in the past?

What tricks do you use to cure constipation?

Share your experiences. Post tips or feedback in the comments below!

The post Feeding Goldfish Peas: A Detailed Walk-Through (with Images) appeared first on Complete Goldfish Care.

Halloween is a couple weeks away. On October 31st, millions of people will dress themselves in scary costumes. Children will walk house-to-house brandishing pillow cases and plastic bags, their faces alight with sweet-tooth-filled grins.

If you celebrate Halloween, you’ve likely covered every inch of your house with ghosts, ghouls, and creepy crawlers. I wouldn’t be surprised if you already had jack-o-lanterns gracing your front doorstep.

Why not deck your tank with scary aquarium decorations?

Finding scary aquarium decorations specifically for Halloween isn’t easy. Many pet stores don’t bother to carry Halloween fish tank decorations because the holiday only lasts one day of the year.

But that doesn’t mean you can’t get creative.

Scary aquarium decorations abound with laughing skulls, haunted castles, and dark themes. You can make your aquarium a sight to behold, grabbing attention the second you whip out that bowl of sweets.

4 Halloween Theme Ideas Using Scary Aquarium Decorations

While Halloween fish tank decorations are limited, you can combine creativity with ingeniousness to build a creepily dark theme with scary aquarium decorations.

In this article, we’ll look at substrate, plants, driftwood, skulls, haunted castles, and spooky caves.

But don’t feel limited to just these. Experiment and create your own aquarium theme worthy of bone-creaking knee shaking.

Dark Aquarium Substrate

Both aquarium lighting and substrate can set the mood for Halloween.

You’ll want to use dark tints and Halloween colors to give your aquarium the adrenaline rush you’re looking for. At the same time, you don’t want to include substrate that is too harsh or too small.

Black, orange, and grey are all great colors for Halloween. You can include solid black substrate or mix and match the colors to add variety.

Halloween-Themed Foliage

In this section we’ll take a look at plastic plants and driftwood that will help create a spooky environment for your goldfish.

Plastic plants colored in orange, peach, or red shades also look great on Halloween. Positioned properly, dark driftwood and bright aquatic plants can work together to create an unnerving, almost supernatural atmosphere in your aquarium.

Driftwood adds a nice touch among other Halloween fish tank decorations. The natural-looking wood atop mossy rocks will have your goldfish feeling as though they’ve just explored an aquatic graveyard. This driftwood is made out of polyresin, providing your goldfish with much-needed hiding space whenever they want to escape from ghosts and ghouls.

You can compliment driftwood with orange and red plants, typical Halloween colors. Add a bit of green or even an underwater forest and these plants will make the darkest corners stand out.

Keep in mind that goldfish like bumping against things. They especially love nipping on edible-looking foliage. So choose plants and scary aquarium decorations that don’t have sharp edges that could easily scrape against your goldfish.

Creepy Skulls and Skeletons

Halloween isn’t complete without the maniacal grin of the undead.

You can give your aquarium a pirate-like atmosphere and include pirates with eye patches, treasure chests, and even sunken ships. Some scary aquarium decorations even come with built-in air stones to keep the water well oxygenated.

This Skeleton raises and lowers his jug of rum as bubbles escape around him, keeping your aquarium well-aerated for Halloween. Air pump and airline tubing aren’t included, so you’ll need these to make the built-in air stone work.

Because Halloween aquarium ornaments aren’t commonly supplied, skeletons and pirates are often used to replace witches, ghosts, and pumpkins. In fact, you can mix and match most pirate decorations with your Halloween theme and still create great results.

No matter which scary aquarium decorations you buy, keep an eye out for quality. You don’t want to accidentally purchase poorly made ornaments. Poor quality products will easily break or cloud the water with harmful chemicals.

If you’re an avid online shopper, finding quality scary aquarium decorations might be as simple as reading reviews. Disappointed shoppers will often leave negative reviews, so always weigh the pros and cons before making a purchase.

Spooky Caves and Haunted Castles

Haunted castles and caves can definitely create a disturbing air. You never know what could be lurking in those dark crevices! The mystery won’t stop your goldfish though. If anything, they’ll enjoy exploring the unknown.

Caves and castles, even haunted cabins, work great in dark Halloween themes. Often these types of decorations will have dark holes and pits your fish can escape into. Since goldfish can grow over 6 inches, you might have to shop around to find scary aquarium decorations with holes large enough for your goldfish.

This haunted castle boasts dark colors and includes plenty of holes for small goldfish to unravel its mysteries. The castle suggests a realm of magic and enchanting beauty filled with witches and wizardry.

You can compliment your haunted castle with blinking lights and purple plants that will enhance your enchanting-magic theme. If you’re interested in dark and eerie, there are sunken ships, rotten bridges, and rock clusters you can include to create a more haunted look.

Putting tank ornaments into your aquarium for the first time? Rinse them off with hot water first. Some tank decorations conceal dust particles that will cloud your aquarium water.

You can even clean scary aquarium decorations by boiling them in a hot pot for a few seconds. Quickly rinsing out decorations with hot water will help remove excess dirt that can accumulate during shipment.

Love the new haunted aquarium theme? You don’t have to pack everything up after Halloween. You can keep your theme year round, create a pirate theme with skeletons and treasure chests, or establish a fantasy world where magic reigns supreme.

Whatever you decide, have fun with it. Add spider webs to the corners of your tank or place a few spiders across your aquarium hood. Tape on cutouts of witches and ghosts. Make decorating the aquarium a family activity.

Jennie Connelly does a great job on her aquarium. Just watching her video will give you all kinds of creative ideas.

Goldfish Love Treats Too

Photo by JD Hancock (Flickr)

Now that you’ve dressed your tank with scary aquarium decorations, let’s celebrate the occasion with tasty goldfish treats!

You can…

Feed Your Goldfish Fresh Fruit

Fruit can be a great source of vitamin C. Goldfish enjoy fresh bananas, oranges, grapes, or berries.

Always…

• Chop fruit up into small clumps before feeding
• Remove the skin from fruit
• Remove embedded seeds
• Feed in small amounts

If you’re not sure which fruits to feed, you can even make a fruit salad of sorts with chopped up grapes (remove seeds and skin), diced bananas, and several different types of berries. Put any leftovers in the freezer, and make sure you sweep the gravel with a water siphon to get rid of uneaten food. I like to feed fruit an hour or two before a scheduled water change.

Since many fruits are high in sugar, I’d only recommend feeding fruit once or twice per month if you want to make it a regular routine.

Treat Your Goldfish to Vegetables

Goldfish will enjoy vegetables like frozen peas, green beans, lettuce, spinach, or zucchini.

Make sure you…

• Never add spices to vegetables
• Remove the skin from vegetables
• Soften vegetables by slightly boiling or freezing them
• Never soften vegetables too much or they’ll cloud the water

You can add veggies to the diet once or twice per week. Vegetables like green peas are even recommended to treat buoyancy problems.

Any special treats you give your goldfish should be fed in moderation. Goldfish will enjoy fresh food in their diet, but don’t go overboard. Feed your goldfish fruits and vegetables occasionally to supplement their stable diet of dry food.

Once you’re done feeding, be sure to clean up any leftover pieces that your goldfish didn’t eat or you might end up with a water quality problem later on.

How Will You Celebrate This Halloween?

Any Halloween decorating tips? Which scary aquarium decorations have you used?

Publish your creativity right here on this website for the world to see. Simply upload a photo on TinyPic (a free image uploading service) and post the link in the comments below or email me a link to your photo, and we’ll publish your haunted aquarium theme and scary aquarium decorations right here on this page.

Good luck decorating!

The post Celebrate Halloween with Scary Aquarium Decorations appeared first on Complete Goldfish Care.